Tearing it apart tomorrow.

[The Terminator]

My gasket set came today, so tomorrow I am going to tear down the 82 ATC 200 and replace the gaskets on the top end. I could have saved about 3 dollars if I would have known that the "complete gasket set" already had an exhaust pipe gasket with it........live and learn. I have a good air ratchet, and a good hand powered impact. Any last minute advice before jumping in would be very much acknowledged and appreciated. - Ted

[200x_Basket]

i just done this myself a few weeks ago. i had a scanned copy of the manual that i sent to dan (250sx) to put in the tech section. if you dont have one it would be nice to have. it was very easy to do.

[The Terminator]

I have my Clymer manual. Maybe it will be good enough. I just loaded and unloaded both it and the other trike, I swapped them out at my storage building. Man......I swear they gained 50 lbs apiece during the trip. It was rough, but I got both of them moved. I am fixing to go outside and give it a good bath before setting in on it. I guess that I could get some break free or liquid wrench and let the exhaust bolts sit overnight before plundering them. But, on second thought, it has just had new valves put in it, (I was told), and I am assuming that it was the improper/ reuse of the old gaskets that is causing my sever oil leak. BTW, two thumbs up for Dennis Kirk, I have placed two different orders with them, and both came within one week. My only real question is what is the best way to remove the chain? Does it have to be taken apart? If so, I guess that I need to get a pair of snap ring pliers tomorrow. - Ted

[dads]

Ya use some good penitrating oil . no't w-d40

[jenndnn3]

Ya get a coffee can and punchin bag. coffee can for the washers and other stuff punchin bag to save the trike from the hammer when somethin does not go back together right:lmao: Have fun

[The Terminator]

I got the motor out, she is resting on my work bench outside in the garage. It took about 2 hours, just fooling around and not getting in a hurry. I'll try to get a few pics, but I found out that if you put the front motor mount back on, with the top of the mount bolted to the bottom front on the motor, it is a dandy way to keep everything standing up, and keep the motor from falling over.

The first problem that I have had is that my mufler is rusted in half where it bolts to the exhaust pipe. If the motor repair works out OK, I'll be ordering a new muffler and exhaust pipe pretty soon. Also, there was no exhaust gasket in place.

One more thing, an air ratchet is a man's best friend, or woman's as the case may be. That has got to be the best $69.00 that I have ever spent on a tool. I still had to get the old 1/2 inch big daddy ratchet out a few times. My ratchet only has 45 pounds of torque listed, the motor mounts were a little more than that.

I am going to take the frame to the car wash and give it a very good pressure washing while I have it apart. - Ted

[Fuzzy]

LOL@Jenndnn3 Thats the best advice i have heard in a long time.

Just take your time with it. And follow the manual. I found if you line up the timing marks like it tells you to do. It makes it a lot easier to put it all together when you are done. Two tips that make the job go faster is.

1. When removing the whole cdi unit. Just take the bolt out of the end of the cam holding the spark advancer on. And remove the two bolts holding the cdi to the head. And remove the whole unit as one piece. That way once the topend is done you just slide the whole thing back on. And put the two bolts back in the mount and the one in the cam. And its all set.

2. On your chain. Just loosen it enough to get the front sprocket off the motor. Then take the 3 bolts out of the sprocket and remove it from the shaft. Then just set your chain back out of your way.

[Fuzzy]

LOL i was a little slow on my post.

[The Terminator]

2. On your chain. Just loosen it enough to get the front sprocket off the motor. Then take the 3 bolts out of the sprocket and remove it from the shaft. Then just set your chain back out of your way.


That is what I did Fuzzy. AND.......would you take that nice picture of your 82 200 out of your sig file so that I won't have to salivate over it every time I see it!:D Also, thanks for the tip about the CDI, I am just about to tackle it. - Ted

[Fuzzy]

LOL dont worrie some day your 82 will look like that also. And it sounds likeyou are whipping right along on it. They are really not as bad as the manual makes it sound to do it. I bet that thing will be back together and running by this evening.

[The Terminator]

Well, it may not be back together this evening, but I am shooting for the weekend. Today is my anniversary, 11 years, so I probably won't get to play with the motor all day. :( I just stopped in because I am making my first trip to the parts store. I need a 6mm by 3/8 drive socket in order to get the cap screws off of the head. I'm about to twist my set of allen wrenches in half. I have broken them before, and it hurts just a little to do this.

The timing mark cap at the recoil starter is garbage. I hit it over and over with the impact, I've never seen one so dadgum tight. It broke on its last round, but it is out, and quasi reusable until I get another. I took a few pics. See ya later. - Ted

[Fuzzy]

Dang dont you love when they fight with you LOL. Happy anniversary. Hope you and the wife have a great night :D.

[The Terminator]

I got the motor apart today and this is what I found. No 0-ring on the head gasket between the cylinder head and the jug. No gasket of any kind on the valve cover. The piston visibly rattled in the jug, but I'm not going to worry with that on THIS tear down, I know another one is coming.

I had to go back to the parts store, the book said 6mm allen wrench, I actually needed a 5mm, no problem there. I put it back together and put it in the frame, so I could have some leverage to crank it. Here is an odd thing, my cam had the timing mark upside down when I first looked at it. I figured that it was put on that way at some point in the past, so, when I re-aligned everything, I put it back just like I found it. Well.......she is not cranking yet. Tomorrow I will take the CDI cover off and re-time and go over everything very thoroughly. I'm 90 percent sure that I have a timing/ firing issue. Why is it that the timing mark keeps wanting to flop one way or the other, but not stay still? I feel sure that she will be firing off tomorrow some time. And Geez.....do you believe that I have fooled with this thing all day and not eaten a single bite of food? Its chow time......- Ted

[Fuzzy]

I hear that. I get so caught up in what i am doing sometimes. I totaly forget to stop and eat. As far as the timing. The reason the crank dosnt want to stay on top dead center. I think is because of the weight of the piston and connecting rod trying to balance at the top of the stroke. So it makes the cam look like it is a little bit cocked. But if you turn the crank over a little to the tdc mark. The cam should be lined up and when you let go of the crank the cam gear will move a little forward.

Its not really a big deal if anything gets moved on the motor. While takeing it apart of putting it back together as long as the cam is straight up when the crank is on tdc. And the spark advance should be pointing almost straight up or maybe a litle to the right of straight up. And make sure you set your valves. You can just turn them down until they touch. And then back them off just a hair. And tighten them down. And the engine should be ready to test run. If it still dosnt start. Check for spark and make sure all your wires are plugged in. If you have spark and it still dosnt start. Try putting the engine on tdc. And pulling the bolt back off for the spark advance and the two bolts for the cdi unit. And pull the whole unit back off. And rotate the motor over one full turn back to tdc. And pit the cdi unit and spark advance back in and recheck your valves. And try it again. I am sure one of them things should get it running for you. Good luck:D.