The Terminator
06-09-2002, 10:45 PM
What a long and enjoyable, day and a half I spent working on my ATC 200. After tearing it down and putting it back together, I feel like such an expert with it. Here is what happened. I got it out of the frame with no problem. I differed from the Clymer manual, as it adds many unnecessary steps to the removal process. First, I just took the chain sprocket loose at the motor, and after loosening the rear axle bearing bolts, and the chain adjustment bolt, I just slid the sprocket off and did not worry with removing the master link and taking the chain apart.
Next, I took the carburetor loose at the intake and left it hanging. When it was time to take the exhaust apart, I took the two bolts loose from the motor, and found that the pipe had been tacked welded with a Mig where it joined the muffler. It was also nearly rusted in half at the muffler, so I just had to twist it in half in order to get the exhaust pipe to a point that I could remove it. I unplugged the spark plug, unplugged the CDI ignition, and unplugged one plug, and one multi wire connection that went down behind the recoil starter, I don't know what these two were for, but the motor came right out with no struggle.
It was not necessary to remove the recoil starter, but I did take the gearshift lever off in order to get to a motor mount bolt that was under/ behind it. I got the motor onto the workbench, and the fun began. Also, I did not remove the CDI until I had it on the bench. When I removed the CDI, I just took off the cover, the two screws holding it to the motor, and the centerpiece with the bolt that was holding it to the cam. It was not necessary to completely disassemble it. (Thanks Fuzzy) After I got the 8mm cap nuts loose from the valve cover, I had to go to the parts store and get a 5mm allen wrench that was a 3/8 drive socket on the back, and remove the hex heads. The book said that a 6mm was necessary, but this is a misprint. A 5mm is necessary. I put it on the hand held impact, hit each one a few times with a hammer, and then let the air ratchet do its job. Also, let me point out that if you have a hand held impact like mine, the adapter comes off, so that you can use 3/8 size sockets with it. The adapter will fit right onto a 3/8-drive air ratchet, and you have a powered screwdriver to work on the ignition components with.
One of the most important things that I learned from this is to never assume that everything was put together properly when you tear a motor down. My cam sprocket was put on 180 degrees from the timing mark, and as a result, when I put the motor back together the "right" way, I bent the valves when I tried to turn the motor over. I bent the valves because I ignored some very good instructions. ALWAYS loosen the valve tappets and rocker arms when you disassemble the motor, that way you don't bind the valves if you turn the motor over. When I felt the valves get tight, it was too late, and I was just barely pulling the recoil when doing this. After this, I stopped, loosened the valves, and re-timed everything perfectly, but it was too late. I could hear the odd sound of the bent valves after getting everything set right. From this experience, I have learned how to do it exactly the right way, and I am looking forward to doing it again with a new piston, and with new valves. The next time there will be no mistakes, as I have gotten past the learning curve. I wish that I would have gotten it right to start with, but I was willing to take a risk to get it right. I feel smarter from having tackled the job in the first place. The enjoyment that I got form doing this, and the experience gained, was worth more than the mistake that I made with the valves, and worth more than the $20.00 that I spent on the gasket set for the top end. This motor WILL end up running before I am through with it. I know that now. Best - Ted
Next, I took the carburetor loose at the intake and left it hanging. When it was time to take the exhaust apart, I took the two bolts loose from the motor, and found that the pipe had been tacked welded with a Mig where it joined the muffler. It was also nearly rusted in half at the muffler, so I just had to twist it in half in order to get the exhaust pipe to a point that I could remove it. I unplugged the spark plug, unplugged the CDI ignition, and unplugged one plug, and one multi wire connection that went down behind the recoil starter, I don't know what these two were for, but the motor came right out with no struggle.
It was not necessary to remove the recoil starter, but I did take the gearshift lever off in order to get to a motor mount bolt that was under/ behind it. I got the motor onto the workbench, and the fun began. Also, I did not remove the CDI until I had it on the bench. When I removed the CDI, I just took off the cover, the two screws holding it to the motor, and the centerpiece with the bolt that was holding it to the cam. It was not necessary to completely disassemble it. (Thanks Fuzzy) After I got the 8mm cap nuts loose from the valve cover, I had to go to the parts store and get a 5mm allen wrench that was a 3/8 drive socket on the back, and remove the hex heads. The book said that a 6mm was necessary, but this is a misprint. A 5mm is necessary. I put it on the hand held impact, hit each one a few times with a hammer, and then let the air ratchet do its job. Also, let me point out that if you have a hand held impact like mine, the adapter comes off, so that you can use 3/8 size sockets with it. The adapter will fit right onto a 3/8-drive air ratchet, and you have a powered screwdriver to work on the ignition components with.
One of the most important things that I learned from this is to never assume that everything was put together properly when you tear a motor down. My cam sprocket was put on 180 degrees from the timing mark, and as a result, when I put the motor back together the "right" way, I bent the valves when I tried to turn the motor over. I bent the valves because I ignored some very good instructions. ALWAYS loosen the valve tappets and rocker arms when you disassemble the motor, that way you don't bind the valves if you turn the motor over. When I felt the valves get tight, it was too late, and I was just barely pulling the recoil when doing this. After this, I stopped, loosened the valves, and re-timed everything perfectly, but it was too late. I could hear the odd sound of the bent valves after getting everything set right. From this experience, I have learned how to do it exactly the right way, and I am looking forward to doing it again with a new piston, and with new valves. The next time there will be no mistakes, as I have gotten past the learning curve. I wish that I would have gotten it right to start with, but I was willing to take a risk to get it right. I feel smarter from having tackled the job in the first place. The enjoyment that I got form doing this, and the experience gained, was worth more than the mistake that I made with the valves, and worth more than the $20.00 that I spent on the gasket set for the top end. This motor WILL end up running before I am through with it. I know that now. Best - Ted