Very Importent Repair you need to do to 250sx eng.

[dads]

This is a pic of the shift shaft , Under the left cover. If you pull the cover off you will see a pin in the square hole that the springs rests against. This pin will get loose ( unscrew ) and will brake off. continued use after this happens may be faital. it may brake off the mounting nipal out of the inner case ( means you have to get a new left side cranck case ( not the cover the inner gear case ) Have one that did that, junk now. found one with a brocken pin. and another with the pin loose. you should check this pin every cup years. it is a hardend steel pin" DO NOT " Lock tite it in, unless you know how to remove a hardened bolt. ( can only be drilled with expensive drill bit. ) If it brakes you should be able to back it out with a smale screw drive because it's loose that is why it broke. :bash:http://adam.cheshire.net/~dads/pic/pic11.JPG

[Howard]

hey dads do you still ahve a picture of this? my buddies new 250sx is having the problem of the excesive shifter play. acts like you ahve to push it back down then you can shift up again. have any tips or pics on this?

[madmax]

Heres the pic DADS sent me

FYI

[dads]

Thanks
could not find that pic. and the book is out.

Also this pease some time brakes and starts to spred apart.
This is caused by people stepping on the shift lever like its a foot peg.

http://userpages.Cheshire.net/~dads/pic/250sx.jpg


ps Wered you find this post.:doh: thought it was long gone.

[Howard]

should this all be in my 85 Big red service manual even thought the trike is a 250sx?

[dads]

A250cc is a 250cc . same engine. Trx is a chain drive 250cc . still the same. and the quad.

If the threads are loose on the stud i have a good fix. with a part from in side the 250 eng. you can still get from the dealer.:demon:

[ScottZJ]

So are you thinking what I am thinking howie? Take apart the big red and see what is wrong with the SX? I really want to ride that sucker this weekend if we could. ;)

[dads]

Originally posted by ScottZJ
So are you thinking what I am thinking howie? Take apart the big red and see what is wrong with the SX? I really want to ride that sucker this weekend if we could. ;)

If you have to replace a part you can kiss this weeked good bye. lol

[ScottZJ]

You have to think positive though! LOL The Red is running fine, so it should be a nice swap, I will just have to get the parts to pay back howie.;)

[250sx]

Just swap rear ends! It won't take but a few hours probably & you'll get to RIDE! It's a no brainer! :doh:

[dads]

Originally posted by 250sx
Just swap rear ends! It won't take but a few hours probably & you'll get to RIDE! It's a no brainer! :doh:


Just swap rear ends.:doh:

Gee Dan can i have some of what your smoking.

[likestrikes]

Out of the 2 SX motors I've messed with - 1 was loose. Great post!! I myself would use the blue loctite and just a touch of heat to remove it if I ever had to.

[250sx]

you have to inject it. :D

[Howard]

ok back to the shifting problem....

Dads, the picture you had

http://userpages.cheshire.net/~dads/pic/250sx.jpg

is what i think is wrong with it. it is spread out and has been welded before. looking in my manual it looks like that should be a tight fit.
everything else on the outside spots look ok. that is the only problem i see.
could it still be something internally?
also is it bad that i pulled the whole shift rod out? or will it go back in just fine, i hope it didn't drop a gear or something..:shrug:

[Howard]

can i weld those to parts together so there is no play or gap ? right now there is a big gap.

[Howard]

Part number 19 is what has been broken and welded on before. it has alot of slop when the two parts are together, and that on pin ( part 21 ) was kinda loose.
here is a picture. if it works.
http://www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/Displayfiche.asp?Section=215280&ID=2224

[dave h]

word dads, good tip! my 88 250x had the same IDENTICAL pin problem, gernading the case before i even got the bike.

listen to cheech :lmao: watch that pin :mad:

dave

[dads]

you could weld it but if something goes wrong when it cost more to replace more parts. if you cheep remove that part off the shift shaft, cut squeeze and weld to lessen the play. you should be able to pull the shaft and put it back in. BUT sometime it does not work and you have to pull the right cover which is no biggey.

http://www.powersportspro.com/parts...=215280&ID=2224

the replcement pin is #8 in the pic "pin shifter" you have to remove the first thread in the hole because the stud is not threaded to the nut and grind the smooth end to shorten it a little because it to long.

[ScottZJ]

I think it looks like we need to just wait til we have more time to do this, since we are leaving friday. I dont feel like messing it up any worse than it already is........peace

[Howard]

the pin that i was talking about that was a lil bit loose was part 21. it was hand loose. that number 8 part was stilll good and tight. i will see what i can get going.
thanks for all the advice,
Howard:thumbsup:

[dads]

#8 is to replace #21 if the stud does not fit tite. and comes loose again.

[Howard]

ahh ok, lol
:thumbsup:

[likestrikes]

Just finished putting the 87 rearend on my 85 when this post came out. I figured I better check mine. Instead I went for a ride to test out the differential and low and behold a mile from home I downshifted and it stayed there! Sure enough the pin broke off and lucky for me was an easy fix.

A tip for anyone who doesn't want take their side cover off to inspect it. Grab your shifter, make sure it is tight on the splines. If you can wiggle it up and down more than a tiny bit - That stud is loose and WILL break off. My other 85 was loose but my 87 was tight and this one of course - sheared right off. The ES engine I have hanging around was loose and when I tightened it , it snapped. Order a new one for 5$ and your all set.

Thanks for this post!

[dads]

:headbang: Thats why i come to this site. To give little tech tips that save on down time and major repair.

Glad it helped :D

[250sx]

if it's ok with dads I'll be glad to post this on the site as a tech tip if someone will format the pics & text into an html page. :cool:

[dads]

Dan Any tech tips i post are for the site and you can use them as you wish.

[madmax]

Originally posted by likestrikes
....The ES engine I have hanging around was loose and when I tightened it , it snapped. Order a new one for 5$ and your all set.

Thanks for this post!

Likestrikes, did you replace the original with another original or did you replace the original with the #8 like dads mentioned?

My 85 shifter is a little jiggly

Thanks

[dads]

us the original stud if you can first. the shift cam stud, is if the original is too loose. and it has to be ground down, it's too long on the spring side.

[madmax]

dads, can I just tighten the original or is it better to replace the worn original pin with a new original?

Will the worn original pin fatigue and possibly break or will the case break before the pin does?

Max

[dads]

I would say if it has not been loose for a long time it sould be ok.
the longger its been loose and beat on shifting the more chants it may have a crack in the stud. and tends to wallo the threads in the case.

[likestrikes]

I know you hate to wait for parts but I would buy a new one for 5$, heck I'd get 2. I used the correct pin. Not that the other wouldn't work but someday I may need a spare so I didn't use it.

Honda has too many instances where threads aren't up to the flat surface the shoulder buts against - same as the 250SX footpegs, that bolt doesn't start threading in until it's in about 10mm so there is 10mm of unsupported footpeg bolt - thats why they snap.

[madmax]

OK, I decided to do the inspection tonight...and what did I find? The pin WAS LOOSE! it was only out about 1 turn but it was loose.

[madmax]

The shift shaft looks like this.....

[madmax]

The pin hole and shift drum mechanism look like this....

[madmax]

I took it apart because the shifter was a little wiggly, but after looking at the shift shaft and spring I think that all of the 250sx shifters will have some play in them whether the pin is loose or not.

The pin will screw in the case fine and tightens up with no problem. DADS have you ever reused the old pin or do you replace them with new?

Anything else I ought to do while I'm in this far?

[dads]

I reuse the old stud. and your shift shaft shift plate looks good.(no cracks)
hows the shaft seal look? nows the time to replace it if needed.

[madmax]

Dads, the seal looks OK, what about replacing the side cover gasket?
Mine stayed attached to the cover and did not tear, should I replace it anyway?

[dads]

Just use some sealer. i use Honda Bond. better than sylicone. Just cost more.

[madmax]

Just a follow up....

I ended up finding a new shifter pin at the local (45 miles away) Honda store and installing it. I'll say this much, with either of the pins screwed in to within 1 turn of being seated the used one did have more play (side to side) in it than the new one did. The threads on the pin must take some abuse once the pin gets loose (not to mention the wear it probably causes on the threaded hole). Anybody that owns an SX should check the tightness of this pin. Removing the side cover takes some effort but thats better than damaging a case.

[kdagenais]

What are the symptons of a bad shifter pin. The problem with my 250Sx is when you down shift it stays down unless you pull it up with your foot. Does this sound like the same problem?

[250sx]

YEP!

[wild200x]

thanx for this thread. i will try to see if this is the problem with Melissa's sx. and i will let ya know!

[greenray]

great write dads, turns out the 350x has the same prob. i bought a crate motor a year ago, and about a month after i put the motor in i encountered a shift problem, " it would'nt". pulled it home tore into left side, and there it was the broken bolt. no problem, i have another parts motor. quik fix! well, just last weekend i'm haulin' ass dead out sixth gear for like 3 miles . when i slowed down to wait for my fellow trikers , i could not get the bike into neutral. not only could i not get the bike into neutral but now it will not move in gear, like the sprocket was locked up. but i could pull in the clutch, and start it. well i cant pull it home, so went and got a truck. when i tore into it this time i found that the bolt going into the shift drum , under the shifter prawls just to the left of the shifter shaft, had come loose and the shift drum, was dangling. tightened it up, put it back together and it's like new money. now i know that if it starts to get difficult to find neutral, pop off the left case and check those 2 little peg bolts:lala: