View Full Version : Bleeding brakes: How difficult?
Glenn
07-08-2004, 11:13 AM
I read this article here:
http://www.3wheeler.org/tech/brakebleed.html
...and it seems prett straight forward. Sounds like it's a two person job; one to work the bleeder, one to work the lever (or pedal).
Anyone ever use one of those "one peson bleeder" hoses? It allegedly uses a one way valve in the hose that you attach to the bleeder. It lets fluid out, but won't let air in.
I figure I might as well bleed the brakes when I put my new pads in.
ATCnut
07-08-2004, 10:45 PM
You want to do more than bleed the brakes when you put in the new pads.
You need to disassemble the caliper and clean up the piston. What happens is as the pad wear down, the piston extends further out of the caliper. The part that is sticking out gets dirty. When you squeeze the piston back into the caliper to get the new (unworn, thicker) pads in, you push the dirt into the seals. then the caliper will start to leak.
The other thing about trike calipars is that the slide pins tend to stick. If the calipar does not float really freely, you should take the pins apart to clean and lube them too.
If the pads that are there are not worn all the way out, and the calipar is not sticking, IMHO I would wait do do the pads until you are ready to do a complete brake rebuild.
Oh yeah, to answer your question about brake bleaders, I had a problem with a air bubble in the rear master cylinder on both of my 200Xs. I ended up using one of the vacume pump bleeders. It has a little hand pump that you attach to the bleeder to pull the fluid through the brake. This got the air out of the master.
Mr. Kasey
07-09-2004, 12:47 AM
i too have a vacuum bleeder it works great,,, besides dale said it all and i have nothing to add:D :D :D
Dan10
07-09-2004, 09:09 AM
I would also recommend replaceing all of the fluid, not just adding fresh stuff. Its cheap, and needs to be done occasionally.
Glenn
07-09-2004, 11:27 AM
What kind of hand pump bleeder do you guys use?
My brake pads are pretty darn worn down. Is there a caliper rebuild kit available that I can use? I'd hate to get the caliper apart, only to have all the seals crumble......
250rAL
07-09-2004, 06:23 PM
Why tear it all apart and rebuild the caliper if it isn't leaking? I've replaced my pads a lot of times with the pistons all the way out and they don't leak. I do replace the fluid every couple of years though. It's not really a two-person job because it's easy to reach both the bleeder and the pedal/lever at the same time. if they've never been apart, you shouldn't have any air in them, so a pump wouldn't really be necessary. Just don't let any air get in when you flush it.
Glenn
07-10-2004, 11:15 AM
Yet another option.....:cool: Mine do seem to be in good shape.
Stan MaN
07-10-2004, 12:38 PM
Alot depends on how "involved" you want to get and how much you want to spend, I just change the pads and deal with any other problems that come up. I also use a hand pump, works great, and I find it to be the fastes, not to mention its hard to f^ck up
ATCnut
07-10-2004, 01:36 PM
I agree that just pushing the piston back in and replacing the pads works most of the time.
If the caliper is going to leak or stick after pad replacement, it will usually do it right away. Keep a really close eye on the brake for a few hours of riding right after pad replacement to make sure there are no problems.
My 350X when I got it needed rear pads. I put a new set in, and had problems with both the brake dragging, and a little drip of a leak. The fluid got on the new pads and trashed them. I ended up having to competly rebuild that caliper. Plus the weekend ride I went on after the pad replacement I had to carry a big screwdriver in my pocket because if I used the rear brake I had to stop and pry the caliper apart to keep it from dragging. I had cracking problems on the rotor later on too that I thnk were caused by it getting really hot a couple of times before I go on top of the sticking caliper.
Good Luck with you brakes Glenn
Glenn
07-10-2004, 10:37 PM
I'll keep everyone posted and I'll take pics!
Do they have rebuild kits for calipers or do you just have to order the O-rings and replace those?
ATCnut
07-10-2004, 11:09 PM
I ordered all the parts individually from ServiceHonda. I also did the front at the same time. One of the pistons was Disco, I think it was the front.
Glenn
07-12-2004, 11:21 AM
Cool. I'll have to keep that in mind.
*Edit:
Will the local automotive stores sell the hand bleeers?
ATCnut
07-12-2004, 01:44 PM
Local auto store should have hand bleeder.
3 or die
07-12-2004, 05:55 PM
use whats left of the old pad and squezze the piston in with a c clamp, replace the pads, then drive the crap out of it. dont fix it if it aint broke. You can easily create an unessary problem by breaking off a bleeder valve. If the brake action was fine( non spongy) than your fluid is fine. Actualy if anything you will have to remove a little fluid, rather than add, becouse when you squeese in that piston the fluid will go to the resivore,
Glenn
07-13-2004, 11:15 AM
I'm going to hit the parts store after work and see if they have a "migtyvac".
I'm flushing the system regardless. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and no matter how often machine is ridden, the fluid needs to be changed out. I try to change the brake fluid in my car every other year or so.
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