No lights-Correct way to test the 250R [Stator] (lights side)?

[Wankel]

I have a Clymer (sp?) manual coming, but I would like to know if anyone has been down the road of "getting the lights to work"...
I have a schematic of the wiring for the 250R trike, and it looks (stop me if I'm wrong) like the bigger of the two coils (under the flywheel) JUST runs the lights. Following the wire, the yellow wire runs from the big coil up to the connector in the headlight area. So, with the bike running, should I see voltage at the connector (yellow wire)? I've traced, and tested the yellow wire (good connections end to end) and it SHOULD be getting good voltage (using DMM). Testing thru each stator coil shows ground, bike kicks over and runs great, no voltage at connector (yellow wire) though. Do you need a load-in-line (pull-up resistor, or ?) to pull voltage on these older bikes? or ??

( A Little HISTORY ):
Bike had no bulb when I got it, put a Hal. bulb in and flicked the (good-borrowed) switch. Light came on Hi\Low - looked good. THEN light went bright, then REAL blue then blew-up (boom!) the bulb - "Whoa" I thought, "what the !@#$". I got no voltage from the connector (that I hadn't checked before anyhow - Doah). After some testing (which involved just plugging another - good- light in), I thought maybe I blew the stator - yanked the flywheel threw in another stator but still have no lights. Bike runs great. The schematic shows no regulator, and harness tests fine. I have NOT put another bulb in yet though, I don't want to screw another stator coil (if that's what happened) but I'm not sure if this second stator is even working right. So... goes my dilemma. Any suggestions??

Thanks,
Chad

[Fuzzy]

I think you should have a voltage regulator on there. That draws the juice up to it and drains out the excess off to the frame. And it sounds like your voltage regulator might have went bad. That should have kept the light from getting to bright and burning out. I think it sould be somewhere like under the tank. And mounted to the frame. Does all the wires on it look stock?. Has anyone cut wires and rerouted them?.

[Wankel]

Originally posted by Fuzzy
I think you should have a voltage regulator on there. That draws the juice up to it and drains out the excess off to the frame. And it sounds like your voltage regulator might have went bad. That should have kept the light from getting to bright and burning out. I think it sould be somewhere like under the tank. And mounted to the frame. Does all the wires on it look stock?. Has anyone cut wires and rerouted them?.

Thanks for the reply,
Yep, it looks unmolested. But, that doesn't mean a whole lot :) . I'll look into it alot harder.

Tanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

Chad

[Fuzzy]

No problem. Good luck with it.

[200x_Basket]

you nee a ohm meter to test it. i did not think the 84 had a regulator???? i will look in my book later tonight.

[Fuzzy]

All the machines that ran lights had some sort of regulator. Other wise when the engine revs up the amps would go way up and blow every thing out. So they need the regulator to keep the amps at a level that the lights could stand with out burning out.

[200x_Basket]

oh, i will look on my parts rig to see if i have a spare for you.

[200x_Basket]

the book says

use an ohm meter and check for continuity between the yellow wire and the ground. if there is continuity then the coil is good, if not the coil is bad.

to do this you need a volt meter. set it to ohms or resistance. (same thing) touch the two leads together (this is continuity) not take them apart (this is infinite resistance)

the book says is there is infinite resistance the coil is bad. i have looked and i do not see any voltage regulator and i have never seen one on my 83 250r. i dont have a light on it but it has all the wires there. there was not one on my parts bike either. the electrical schematis does not show one either. if the coil test good then i would start checking my grounds and for loose connections or a bad switch.

i hope this helps
later
chris

[Wankel]

Thanks for your help, still checking. My DMM says all's fine like it should be so I'll probably throw caution to the wind and (when I get a better switch) put a bulb in - cross my fingers and kick'er over.

Thanks again to all.,

Chad