2 Stroke Oil can make your bike Faster

[Meat-BoX]

Totally Rebuilt a Tecate 250 and the 1st tank I used Yamalube 2 stroke oil. The second tank I used Klotz R 50 2 stroke oil. On the way home from the Gas station the Tecate Started Fouling out Sputtering and Bogging, I opened the throttle wide open and then she sputtered a bit and then it just took off like a rocket Noticeably much faster than ever before.
Before, I used to tell people that I remembered the old 2 Strokes to be pretty scary. But I figured since I got older it didnt seem so fast too me. Well the Tecate is actually Pretty Scary now with that new Koltz 2 stroke oil. I am amazed at the Performance difference between these two 2 stroke oils.

[CHAINSAW]

Yamalube = poop!! Klotz is a good brand, and what I like to run in my 2 strokes also. I personally think it smells the best to!

[deathman53]

people say that blue marble oil will make your bike faster, but it takes 3-4 tanks for it to take effect. I use klotz r50, its better than bel-ray hands down.

[my90rulz]

people say that blue marble oil will make your bike faster, but it takes 3-4 tanks for it to take effect. I use klotz r50, its better than bel-ray hands down.
The only reason they say BM makes it run faster is becuse that **** runs ALOT leaner and hotter from say ams oil...i personally dont like it.:thumbsup:

[NOS_350X]

I like Klotz or Motoul.

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

They say that certain oils are "Faster" because of the additives but ....Yamalube 2-r is sup. a beter protectant but a "Slower" Oil..i also like the way Klotz Smells..right now thats what i'm useing..it won't rust your cyl. like the 927 will

[CHAINSAW]

the only problem Ive found with Klotz is.. the BeNOL (castor oil) kind will Jel up on you when mixed with 100 octane AV gas. I only had this problem with the benol (the green labled) and not the super techniplate or the R50. I didnt have a problem with 110 Race gas.. just the AV gas for some reason.

[Meat-BoX]

Ok Lets Take it Further:doh:

Umm, I only Put in slightly less than 4 oz per 1 gallon, thats a litttle less than 32:1
My ? is that I heard theres a difference between the recomended 32:1 - 50:1

I running R50 at 32:1 through a totally rebuilt motor, all of it.

What is the difference between the recomended 32:1 - 50:1
and what should I run in my Tecate
I heard that the differnce can meen a Blow motor.
Whats the safest mixture for a new 2 stroke motor?

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

i agree with Chain ... the Maxima 927 and or the "bean" oils do cloud up and tend to seperate...as far as mixing .. i mix the MC-1 and the Klotz 40:-1 and the Yamilube ..32-1

[Oldschoolin86]

I've ran MC-1, R50, Benol and super techniplate. Super Techniplate is by far my favorite. It mixes well, the blend protects very well and I like how it runs more then the others. 50:1 here.

[84KXTtecate]

I ran Klotz R50 in my bike and it froze up, along with Blazers 81 R he ran the same thing in it. Im still sticking with HP2, its a little more expensive than everything else but you get what you pay for.

[SpeedBump]

Used to run SuperTechniplate, liked it, but could only buy it from a dealer 20+ miles away. My friend across town started selling Amsoil @ his garage so I switched to it. Had some REAL good experience with it...locked my engine up due to a lean needle setting...jumped on it while rollin along at 40+...started back up.....wah...wah...wahh....CLUNK locked it up AGAIN....another jump...fired back up...nursed it home over a mile away. Took out the piston...scraped the small bit of alum from the top ring...sanded it down a wee bit...ran a hone thru the bore and raced that engine the entire season. Sold me on amsoil. BTW, HP2 SMELLS like POOP! :lmao: :doh:

[77charger]

I have used 927 for 17 years it used to be be just called racing castor.I have NEVER had a gumming problem,rust,separation at all and never seized a motor with it or foul a plug,Ran in a kx 125(84),cr 250(also had a powervalve) and my current 250r.When it came time for a rebuild all cylinders were very clean

I dont mix with any other oils unless i ran out of gas and need to get back to camp happened to my cr250 when a friend drove it.I usually mix it at 32 to 1 with half 110 and pump gas for my 250r.Nevr used av gas for atc but have done in my old boat

Probably will never change brands

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

i like the way 927 smells "like your raceing" but it seemed to build up Carbon too much and if the bike sat for more that 2 weeks .... the cyl. rusted on the inside,i do know that if you put 1oz per gallon in 4-strokes...THEY RUN !!!!
other than that i would Maybe use it for my chain :-)

[gasmask2008]

i've tried 4 different 2 stroke oil and i must say that klotz super techniplate gets my vote. my mixture is 32:1 or 4 oz to 1 gallon and a 50/50 gas mixture. i use this in both 3 wheelers.

[Troll]

I like the semi-syn. maxima @32:1 I think its interesting on the two thoughts of mixture ratios. Hard to tell which is right....lol


I go by this theory;
Original post;
I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626
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Pre-mix 101

OK, looks like it's time for a little pre-mix 101. I don't usually get into ratio discussions, because mix ratios are like religions to most people, and they tend to be closed-minded on the subject, but I'll put in my $.02 here anyway.

There is a prevailing myth that less oil is better, and that the oil in the fuel is what lubricates the engine. Both are wrong. The engine is lubricated by the residual oil that builds up in the crankcase. All the oil in the fuel does is replenish this oil.

The best way to determine if you are running enough oil is to check the level of the residual oil in the crankcase. If the ratio you run leaves enough residual oil in the crankcase to cover about 1/8" of the bottom of the crank wheels, then you are fine. If you don't have that much residual oil in your crankcase when you pull the top-end off, you aren't running enough oil for your riding style and conditions.
With that said, to have that amount of residual oil in the crankcase at 50:1 (a ratio made popular by magazines and oil bottles), you can't be riding very hard, or your bike is jetted richer than necessary simply to deliver enough oil. I arrived at 26:1 for my bike with my riding style because that is the amount that gives me the proper amount of residual build-up. Small-bore engines require greater oil concentrations than larger engines to achieve the proper amount of residual build-up, because they rev higher and have higher intake velocities. Along the same lines, someone that pushes the engine harder, and keeps the revs higher, also needs to use higher oil concentrations to achieve the proper residual build-up.

To understand why the residual oil is so important, you have to understand what happens to the oil in your fuel when it goes into the engine. While the oil is still suspended in the liquid gasoline, it can not lubricate anything. It has about as much lubricity at that point as straight gasoline. When the gasoline enters the engine, it evaporates, dropping the oil out of suspension. Now that the oil is free, it can lubricate the engine, but it must get to the parts to lubricate them. The way it gets to the bearings and onto the cylinder is by being thrown around by the spinning crankshaft. Some of the oil eventually makes it into the combustion chamber, where it is either burned, or passes out the exhaust. If the combustion chamber temps are too low, such as in an engine that is jetted too rich, the oil doesn't burn completely. Instead, some of it hardens into deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston, and on the power valve assembly. The rest becomes the dreaded "spooge". The key to all of this working in harmony is to jet the bike lean enough to achieve a high enough combustion chamber temperature to burn the oil, but also still be able to supply enough oil to protect the engine. If you use enough oil, you can jet the bike at it's optimum without starving the engine of oil, and have excellent power, with minimal deposits and spooge. At 50:1, you simply can't jet very lean without risking a seized engine due to oil starvation.

With the high oil concentrations that I use, I tend to get far more life from my cranks and rings than most of my friends that run leaner oil ratios. The high oil content also produces better ring sealing, so more of the combustion pressure is retained.

One small point. No one ever broke an engine by using too much oil.

__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Pre-mix Ratios and Horsepower Production

I have run Dyno tests on this subject. We used a Dynojet dynamometer, and used a fresh, broken in top-end for each test. We used specially calibrated jets to ensure the fuel flow was identical with each different ratio, and warmed the engine at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes before each run. Our tests were performed in the rpm range of 2500 to 9000 rpm, with the power peak of our test bike (an '86 YZ 250) occuring at 8750 rpm. We tested at 76 degrees F, at 65% relative humidity. We started at 10:1, and went to 100:1. Our results showed that a two-stroke engine makes its best power at 18:1. Any more oil than that, and the engine ran poorly, because we didn't have any jets rich enough to compensate for that much oil in the fuel. The power loss from 18:1 to 32:1 was approximately 2 percent. The loss from 18:1 to 50:1 was nearly 9 percent. On a modern 250, that can be as much as 4 horsepower. The loss from 18:1 to 100:1 was nearly 18 percent. The reason for the difference in output is simple. More oil provides a better seal between the ring and the cylinder wall.

Now, I realize that 18:1 is impractical unless you ride your engine all-out, keeping it pinned at all times. But running reasonable ratios no less than 32:1 will produce more power, and give your engine better protection, thus making it perform better for longer.




%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

or this?


Another way of thinking found here; http://www.macdizzy.com/oil2gas.htm



If you get the opportunity to take apart an engine very often you may notice that the bottom end of a two stroke almost always has a substantial amount of oil laying in the cases. Even in engines that have been run at leaner oil to gas ratios (50:1 to 100:1) there is plenty of oil. The other internal parts of the engine also are well coated wet with oil. It doesn't matter if the motor is air cooled or liquid cooled - the internals of the engine are still coated. Much of this oil may accumulate at idle and during periods of low rpm running. Once you get the motor spinning faster and it is under load, that extra oil in the case may finally have a chance to become suspended again in the fuel and air mixture and perhaps be burned.

Many people will rev their engine to clear that oil (that plume of smoke they get at startup or after idle) and refer to it as "cleaning out" the engine. And that is exactly what is happening. That oil - which has become separated from the fuel has gathered in the cases and is standing by waiting for some serious turbulence to get it up the transfer ports and into the cylinder where it can finally be burned. Too much oil in the gas can lead to additional problems like carbon deposits on the piston crown and cylinder head, sticky rings, fouled plugs and wet drippy black gunk (unburned oil) coming out of the joints of the exhaust system.

It is probably best to avoid sustained periods of idle, or very low rpm running under no load. It is also probably better to choose a lower gear (for instance 3rd at 5000 rpm instead of 4th at 3800 rpm) and let the motor spin faster when driving at slower speeds since there in less likely a chance of the oil not finding its way to the combustion chamber. It is my opinion that if you use top quality oils (synthetics are the best) you are only throwing away money and making more smoke by running more oil through the engine than it needs. I have had good luck by always using the same oil to gas ratio and the same oil brand.


Anyway it's interesting.........:thumbsup:

[dunerash]

i like the way 927 smells "like your raceing" but it seemed to build up Carbon too much and if the bike sat for more that 2 weeks .... the cyl. rusted on the inside,i do know that if you put 1oz per gallon in 4-strokes...THEY RUN !!!!
other than that i would Maybe use it for my chain :-)
I also ran that 927 for a while and it did build carbon on the piston and inside head on mine.. I figured it was because I ran the engine a little fat.. Last rebuild I switched to Dumonde Tech red bottle..:shrug:

[Oldschoolin86]

Now, I realize that 18:1 is impractical unless you ride your engine all-out, keeping it pinned at all times. But running reasonable ratios no less than 32:1 will produce more power, and give your engine better protection, thus making it perform better for longer.



I've seen you post this many times and I gotta pull the BS flag. :bs:

I'm sure I'm not alone on seeing power increases from a 50:1 ratio compaired to 32:1 with sythetics and synthetic blends. To each is there own I guess. Oils are like underwear, you should just use what feels good and does the job.

[MR ATC]

I've seen you post this many times and I gotta pull the BS flag. :bs:



thats because if you disagree with anyone then you call :bs: :bs: :bs: .

[ScottZJ]

I've seen you post this many times and I gotta pull the BS flag.

I'm sure I'm not alone on seeing power increases from a 50:1 ratio compaired to 32:1 with sythetics and synthetic blends. To each is there own I guess. Oils are like underwear, you should just use what feels good and does the job.

So what you wearing? A Thong? HAHAHAHA :lmao: ;)

Seriously I used that BLUE Gargle junk and it was just that. I tried to use it as long as possible blowing plugs worse than a baby blowing his diaper haha. But it would never make it run good on any of my trikes that I used it on. Heck I have half a jug left that I have used on my weed eater and now its fouling plugs....hahahaha

[Oldschoolin86]

So what you wearing? A Thong? HAHAHAHA :lmao: ;)


LOL, no I think the guys running 100:1 are the thong guys.:chuckle:

[Troll]

I've seen you post this many times and I gotta pull the BS flag. :bs:

I'm sure I'm not alone on seeing power increases from a 50:1 ratio compaired to 32:1 with sythetics and synthetic blends. To each is there own I guess. Oils are like underwear, you should just use what feels good and does the job.


Thanks for the reply and input. I just think its interesting the way 2-stroke oil works. What do you think? That the oil seperates and the crank splashes oil around, or the mixture of oil/gas lubes the componets?
I still think, at least to this point. That there is a actual oil level, due to seperation.
I also believe in synthetic's and blends. But also believe that changing oil mixture ratios, will change air/fuel ratios at the same time. I wouldnt go from 32:1 to 50:1+ without rejetting.
So are the "power gains" due to the new type of oil? The new oil mixture ratio? Or the new a/f ratio?
Maybe the gains were noticable after oil mixture changes and rejetting to where it was?
Thanks..............................:thumbsup:

[Oldschoolin86]

So are the "power gains" due to the new type of oil? The new oil mixture ratio? Or the new a/f ratio?
Maybe the gains were noticable after oil mixture changes and rejetting to where it was?
Thanks..............................:thumbsup:
Without a doubt there are power gains from different oils and ratios. You're 100% right, when you change ratios or even oil you should check your jetting. I'm talking about the "power gains" after proper tuning. ;)

[RideOn 3]

Has anyone ever used Golden Spectro? the guy at one of the honda shop i went to said its the only oil he uses so i decided to give it a shot. It came in a 12 oz bottle that your suposed to mix with 5 gallons of gas to run at 52:1 so has anyone had and good or bad expiriences with it?

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

ive heard that some people use it but i don't like it...

[my90rulz]

So what is the stinkiest Pre-mix oil? Klotz or castor? i need some stinky stuff to check my crank seals....

[RideOn 3]

yamahondaman, what was your experince with Goldern Spectro? how come you didnt like it?

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

i worked on MANY Motors that ran the Golden Spectro and Maxima Oils .. they were WORE OUT ...i don't know if it was jetting,running 5 miles Top End or what...but iv'e never seen a Motor Seized from Yamalube2-r,Klotzr50,MC-1 or PJ1-Goldfire.... there is SOOO Much that Matters when Maintaining a Motor ... such as Pump Gas,detonation,Jetting,Crank Case Volume,Pipes,Intake Charge,Compresion,Heat,Plug Type, Clean "foam" Filter,Etc....
Hard to tell about peoples Preferance's about oil's and such ..kinda like wearing "LEVI's" instead of Wrangler's...............
HOLLARRRRRRRRRRRRRR

[ATCteen]

I personally run polaris synthetic in my R. I had some leftover from the sleds and tried it, and loved it! I had to use some valvaline oil about a month back, it BLEW!!! It didn't smell nearly as good either!!! hahaha

[dufrain]

Silkolene if they still make it smells different than any oil,I remember We could always tell who was running it.I used it and had good luck.I like the golden spectro 4 stroke oil.

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

iv'e heard GOOD Thing's about the Golden Spectro(Tranny Oil) in the Street Bike Tranny's... also Mobil 1

[200x_Basket]

so what do you all think of the PJ1 gold? that is what i run and have never had a problem. well the only problem is that it aint cheap :)

[dufrain]

I think most of the good synthetics made for motorcycles or 3 wheelers is fine as long as you are jettted for the plug to run tan colored.I have run all kinds and the only time I ever had a problem is I stuck the rings on a cr 480 running the main jet too rich.That was techniplate Klotz.That was also alot of riding in some tight trails with too tall of a first gear and too rich.I dont think it was the klotz fault.
I know PJ1 has been around forever and I have never heard anything bad about it.

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

PJ-1 GoldFire is GOOD Oil .. i know a guy that run's it , the one ATC He has 9 years on the piston from useing that Oil..smells Good Too !! :-)

[dovesprings250R]

I still like yamalube 2r. Never had any problems with it at 32:1. Maybe I should try something new.

[3on3250-R]

I think HP2 is excellent oil. I melted a hole in the top of the piston In my R while racing In a hare scramble In Ohio. My head gasket was leaking and compression was pushing Into the coolant system. That caused the coolant system to drain slowly through the overflow. I was not gunna just lay down and shut Er off, because I hate to loose so I kept filling the radiator and ran It til she blew. It got so hot It started to melt the rubber seal on the stator, then finally quit becaus of no commpression. When I pulled the cylinder off the piston had a dime size hole in It. The piston skirts still AMAZINGLY looked good. I think alot of people care more about how the oil smells than the protection you get from It. I swear by HP2. I will post a pic of the melted piston when I get a chance.

[84KXTtecate]

I think HP2 is excellent oil. I melted a hole in the top of the piston In my R while racing In a hare scramble In Ohio. My head gasket was leaking and compression was pushing Into the coolant system. That caused the coolant system to drain slowly through the overflow. I was not gunna just lay down and shut Er off, because I hate to loose so I kept filling the radiator and ran It til she blew. It got so hot It started to melt the rubber seal on the stator, then finally quit becaus of no commpression. When I pulled the cylinder off the piston had a dime size hole in It. The piston skirts still AMAZINGLY looked good. I think alot of people care more about how the oil smells than the protection you get from It. I swear by HP2. I will post a pic of the melted piston when I get a chance.


I agree on HP2, Ive heard some people running that oil, pulled there top end off 5 years later still looked awesome, threw a set of ring in it and ran it to the ground, I agree with the smell thing too, I am more worried about the lubercation aspect of the oil. Ive been running the HP2 in the Tecate for 2 years and havnt had a probelm. Im still at 32:1 and foul plugs every now and then if I baby it around on trails, but that is due to riding it slowly around on first gear, open her up and she will never foul a plug. Of course everybody is relgious about there 2 stroke oil and it is hard to ever convert anybody to anything else. Although I will say one thing, HP2 isnt cheap, I think around my part of town it is 6 or $6.50 a quart. Get what you pay for.

[3on3250-R]

Here Is a picture of the melted R piston on HP2. The skirt has some aluminum burned on It from the top, but thats all the scoring. The Intake side Is blurry, so It's hard to tell that It still looks sweet.

[bones200x]

When I had a 2 stroke(dirtbike) I used either Bel Ray oor GN2. I always bought oil at my Honda dealer. I know GN2 is good stock oil. I have ALWAYS heard HP2 is BETTER. I know of several racers (cr's) that use it. They just replace rings every 3rd race. Pisons...hardly ever with HP2.
Who cares about smell? I don't want anything to seize.

[Chadster200x]

gotta admit yamalube is probably the best oil ive ever used in my 250r. it puts out a clean blue smoke like the bike should and i rarely foul a plug at 32:1. i just know im an idiot cuz i blew out the gasket at the base of the cylinder a while back and im still riding the stupid thing around my house but i rarely ever pin and i havnt noticed anything different though i think im throwin off the mixture cuz of all the extra air that i think its inhaling...