1985 250r

[don250R]

didn't know where to post this, BUT.....
my 85 is UP AND RUNNING STRONG!!:thumbsup:
have a few technical issues, changing spark plugs at the start of each day that i ride(whether its 4 hrs, or 8).:confused:
here's how its set up now:
stock jug on the very first bore(.25mm?), Honda piston.
38 mm PJ carb,
RAD valve w/spacer(thanx Matt, also for the shifter),
OEM stator(thanx Howard)and flywheel,
stock exhaust,
CR250R head gasket, currently running 93 octane, w/MC-1 oil @ 40:1).
I can still hear pinging @ WOT in 5th and 6th under uphill loads with a passenger.:confused:
13/36 gearing currently, but have new chain and 14/37 combo coming.
have it still jetted a tiny bit RICH, but never had the plug fouling problems with Golden Sprecto.
had to change plugs on the 84 every 1 or 2 weeks.
always used NGK B9ES
anyhow it is very rideable.;)
please feel free to jump in with any advice, and take this thread anywhere you want to.

[Vegas250RR]

w/MC-1 oil @ 40:1). ???? is that a good mix for you and what elevation do you usually ride at ? I havent gone over 32:1 with my mix, the engine
just gets TOO loud !

[don250R]

i ride between 300-700 ft above sea level.
40:1 is easiest to mix, one 12.8 oz. bottle to 2gals. race gas(112 octane), and 2 gals. 93 pump.
this is a recent change that made all the labor knocking(pinging, detonation)go away.:thumbsup:

[dunerash]

Whats the compresssion? I've never heard of a engine builder who thinks its a good idea to mix race/pump fuel. 200# and up its race gas only.

[NOS_350X]

200# and up its race gas only.


i assume you meen 200 psi?
Ive herd that is 170psi and up is race gas only.

[don250R]

well guys,
its kinda advancing the timing on a 4-stroke.
raising the compression requires higher octane fuel in 2-strokes.
as does advancing the timing in 4-strokes.
as far as my actual compression goes haven't checked with a guage.
I can hear labor-knocking(pinging,detonation) in a 2-stroke.
CR250R head gasket, 93 octane, you can hear coming from mid to top, especially in 5th and 6th gear.
As far as the blending of octanes go, this is an old-school trick.
If you don't need 112 race gas(thats whats available in Hot Springs),
blend it with 93 pump gas. half and half, and you get 102.5 .
if you don't need 112, why run it.
engine builders, especially those that sell race gas, will sell you on race gas.
The only REAL difference is octane rating!

[Mr. Richard]

If you don't need 112 race gas(thats whats available in Hot Springs),
blend it with 93 pump gas. half and half, and you get 102.5 .


this is not true,, there is no acurate way to measure mixing and throwing out numbers is false,,,, AND whats up with the tall gearing?? i say that is your problem 13/ 36 with a passenger???? WELL DUH!!

[don250R]

are you sure about that Kasey? I mean the octane mixing.
I've seen on the other boards other people mixing race and pump gas.http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=48702
as far as the gearing, i love the way it runs out on top with 20x10-9's on the back.
the motor has time to rev instead of being there all at once.
as far as passengers go, they are RARE, but they do get on ocassionally.
BUT even with tall gearing AND a passenger, it still shouldn't labor-knock(ping,detonate,whatever)!

[Troll]

Whats the compresssion? I've never heard of a engine builder who thinks its a good idea to mix race/pump fuel. 200# and up its race gas only.


don250R, dunerash is right you need to know what the compression is. Just test it.
Heres a link on Approximate Fuel Octane Requirement's; http://www.macdizzy.com/compress.htm

[don250R]

yes, i'm beginning to believe ya'll are right.
About the compression, that is.
I really need to measure(thinking i need more octane).
took it out this evening for a 1 hr ride, and thought i heard pinging a couple of times.
That was REALLY in WOT in 6th gear!
found a fire road where i can really run it out.
been testing all my jetting changes there.
STILL need to lean it out abit more.
getting dark brown on clean plug chops.
still slightly rich. AFTER the main comes the needle clip.
Which also can be determined by a plug chop @half throttle.
everyone asking about my gearing, come to MY woods trails and I'll show you!

BTW thanx troll
i'll look into it.

[Mr. Richard]

WOW YOU WANT TO WAKE THAT THING UP?????? dump the stock pipe,,,, on one of my 86's i have a fmf pipe with the stock silencer ,,,, BIG DIFFERENCE!!! AND STILL PASSES SOUND LAWS

[don250R]

been TRYING to snag some kind of pipe off e-bay(DG,PT Hi-Rev,Fatty).
good thing about Arkansas, NO sound laws!
But don't you have to have a silencer @ TF?
would hate to bring my trike only to find out i couldn't ride it.
probably about the time i get it all jetted in, i'll find a pipe,LOL.
compression test coming this weekend, will let everyone know what i find.

[Duner]

this is not true,, there is no acurate way to measure mixing and throwing out numbers is false,,,, AND whats up with the tall gearing?? i say that is your problem 13/ 36 with a passenger???? WELL DUH!!


Exactly! There are soooo many owners that have misconceptions about mixing fuels. Note, running race gas does a couple things. The main thing it does is run COOLER, so if you live in a sunny state that reaches the 100+ temps, this will help in maintaining cooler temperture for your trike. I run 114 octane for this very reason.

[don250R]

have a new problem today.
rear caliper went crazy:wtf: . rode it home about 1/2 mile.
rear caliper smoking, and when i cracked the bleeder, steam came out for about 10 min.
tried to lossen rear brake reservoir cap, but stripped the phillips head screws.
should i sacrifice the rear reservoir cap to get the srews out?
seals inside rear caliper probably toasted.
SIGH.................
the light @ the end of the tunnel, is just another train.
Please Help!
Don

[firefirefire90]

Something probably stuck inside of your caliper creating so much heat that it started to boil the brake fluid thus creating steam. Looks like a good caliper rebuild is in order.

[4cylinders]

hey, just my 2 cents worth, have you tried a hotter plug? and what about timing, is it adjustable?

[FlyingW]

Big daddy Don, stop for a minute and think about where the heat could come from.

The best answer is... brakes dragging excessively.

when the brakes are not being used the piston retracts the inboard pad slightly allowing for freewheeling. The thing to look for is, do the brake pads retract far enough to allow for freewheeling? Now its normal for the brake pads to touch slightly if your rotor is a little warped as just about all of them are but if its alot warped then the brakes will hit harder but with the symptoms you described something is going on to cause the brakes to generate tons of heat. My bet is on dragging brakes. Try this, take your chain and rear wheels off. Turn the axle by hand. Is it easy to turn or do you feel some resistance? Keep us posted.

[don250R]

the brakes were sticking BAD!! It would damn near stop as soon as you pulled in on the clutch.
WHY??
been working good for about 3 weeks(how long its been running).
And had been working for 3 yrs. just rolling it around(bought a house, took awhile to get back to the trike).

[FlyingW]

Thought so. Why? consider the typical debris your brake caliper is subjected to. Dirt, mud, grit etc.. There is a rubber spring if you will in the caliper that seperates the caliper when pressure is let off the brake. If the rubber spring is damaged or rotten the the pressure isn't there to seperate the pads or the hydraulic pistons are junked up keeping them from moving freely. Either way, it's time for a caliper rebuild. I'd go ahead and drain and flush the entire rear brake system while your at it. Boiling the fluid compromised the integrity of the fluid anyway so might as well clean the entire system out. Just remember, it's always a good idea to hose your brake system off after a hard ride. It will keep the junk from accumulating in and on your brake calipers. It doesn't take much to junk up a brake caliper if left unchecked. Good luck.

[don250R]

Thought so. Why? consider the typical debris your brake caliper is subjected to. Dirt, mud, grit etc.. There is a rubber spring if you will in the caliper that seperates the caliper when pressure is let off the brake. If the rubber spring is damaged or rotten the the pressure isn't there to seperate the pads or the hydraulic pistons are junked up keeping them from moving freely. Either way, it's time for a caliper rebuild. I'd go ahead and drain and flush the entire rear brake system while your at it. Boiling the fluid compromised the integrity of the fluid anyway so might as well clean the entire system out. Just remember, it's always a good idea to hose your brake system off after a hard ride. It will keep the junk from accumulating in and on your brake calipers. It doesn't take much to junk up a brake caliper if left unchecked. Good luck.

heard an interesting theory from an auto mechanic today.
I apoligize, I left out certain information.
Every time i apllied the the back brakes, they wouldn't release!
I hit them 3or4 times on the way home and were almost glowing red when i got there.They kept tightening up!
he said the rubber inside the brake hose(AFAIK its 20 yrs. old), had deteriated and was plugging the line when you let off the brake. Hence it kept tightening up.
Does this hold water?
Thanx in Advance
Don

[FlyingW]

Anything is possible Don however, it doesn't take much pressure on the pads to cause enough friction to lightup the caliper. You know, if the caliper got that hot you may be a good idea to replace the caliper alltogether.

[don250R]

included most recent changes in thread custom & performance mods.
lightening a 350x flywheel.
help me troll! point them the way!