Brake Troubles...

[Matt_200s]

I have good shoes but no matter what I do I cant get the brakes to work .Any suggestions I'm thinkin new cable? :confused:
And oh yeah this is the 110.

[ATCRYDER]

Matt--

we are talkin rear drums here im assuming?

what exactly happens when you press the rear brake lever? do you see the little "hinge" on the drum move?

Do they just not work completely or do they jsut barely?

Rob

[Matt_200s]

The cable dosent have enough strength to turn the arm that turns this thing that opens the shoes out to touch the drum. Please help me :(

[ATCRYDER]

hmmm.......well the only thi9gns I think you can do are

1. Oil up the drum brakes and cable

2. Tighten that little arm that engages the shoes and see if itll work then.

Ive never ehard of a cable not being able to engage the drums. But I think tighten the nut on that arm might do it.

Give it a try.

also: are you saying the elver just goes allt eh way back to the grip? like it doesnt have enough tensioN?

Rob

[Matt_200s]

I have it all tight and the handle soes have tension but the pedal dosent and no matter what I do the arm wont turn the stud to move the shoes unless I have they brakes super tight but then there riding :confused:

[ATC_250SX]

easy fix, my 200 did this to me, you need to disasemble the drum, take the shoes out and take the arm off the spindle. take a hammer and tap the spindle through the hole. then clean it up with some 220 grit paper and if you can go get a 1/2 inche copper pipe fitteng wire btush, take the metal end off of it (it is a little disk on the end you stick in youll know what i mean when you get one.) and runn it through the hole. then put never-seize (that cool silver stuff) on the spindle and put it back through the hole and re assembele. my 200 did that and the rust just seized it all up inside the spindle not any fun! should take like and hour or so.

[Mr. Richard]

i would use grease , never seize was never intender to be a lubricant it was designed to prevent corosion,so it dosen't last as long as grease

[ATC_250SX]

for this application never-seize lasts longer trust me on this one kasey im speakin from experience :D

[atc330r]

never seize i do the same last for along time much better than grease

[ATC_250SX]

so far the only place i found not to use that stuff is for packing bearings aluminum and spark plugs! Ohhhh Not good for spark plugs.

[atc330r]

take the lever off the frame and do the same. if all you have is grease use it. its better that nothing never seize is best

[ATCnut]

I believe that the actual name is "Anti Seize" It's good stuff used in the right places

[atc330r]

i put some on plug threads. took the plug out and wiped the hole off good. this was before the head was in stalled. i use in on my vw heads. just usea tiny little spot of it.

[ATC_250SX]

Anti-Seize, never-seize, Dont F-ing rust stuff, Bahh its all the same!

[atc330r]

depends on the color gold or silver in permatex brand

[atc330r]

pep all the same. i cant find the gold any more.

[ATC_250SX]

Oh well then, i got myself a can of silver, whats the politically correct name for it?

[atc330r]

hummm i gotta tube of silver. what is the name for it??????

[atc330r]

ok from here forth the silver stuff shall be known as " that silver gooy sh$$". now watch him put me on double probation for using dallor signs. i still cant find any rules for this site???

[Matt_200s]

I'm not sure if thats it but its the pedal and brake handel or it might be in the cable cant turn it they dont have enough travel. The the arm itself can be pushed to turn on the brakes its just unless I have the brakes turned till there riding it wont work to move the pedal and apply the brakes. PLease help its quite distressing :( :confused:

[atc330r]

guessing that noone has changed any parts
on this and the cable fits. the cables moves free no sticking. the lever on the back of the brake drum where the cable adjustment is . is on splines. take the locking bolt out and use a screwdriver to spread out the arm where the the bot is. this makes it easy to pull the lever off. take note or mark the lever, so you know the starting point. remove the lever, rotate i to the rear one notch. this will preload the brakes. you may have to do this several times. i think whats up is your brake drum is wore or te shoes, even if they still have lineing. by moving the lever your moving the shoes closer to the drum. you know how they work right? the rod has the flat sides, the shoes sit on those, it rotates which spreads the shoes. the way it is now, is all the pull (movement it will ever have and its not spreadin the shoes enough to reach the drum. so move the lever back. set this up with the adjustment backed off. do all this with the brake drum off. its a cheapo fix, but it will work till you can get new shoes or what ever

[BiG ReDs All Da Way]

My suggestion is buy a good pair of sneakers with lot of grip on the bottom. :chuckle: :chuckle:

[ATC_250SX]

ah yes jumping the spline. it works for a while, then they start to "Camber Lock" and the brakes wont release, my dirtbike is almost to that point its pretty sketchy

[Matt_200s]

I guess I'm not explaing it right. When I press the pedal or the handle lever it will not trun the arm on the back to open up the brake shoes. But if I actually physically push the arm back it works. The problem is the pedal or the lever wont work unless the thing is tighttend up a whole bunch. But these are new shoes so I shouldnt have to do that.
But if it works and you folks cant help me I'll just tighten them up enough. Please tell me why these shoes wont work unless I have it super tight. :bash: I want to smash the darn thing I cant figure it out.
p.s. the shoes were to big so ground them down would that have anything to do with it?:confused:

[atc330r]

matt; your leaving to much out. you ground the shoes. ok they were to big? were thhey to wide or to thick. take the shoes and lay one in the drum. against the braking surface. that lining on that shoes has to have the same arch as the drum. all of the lining against the drum or most of it. if not youll have soft o mushie brakes. it sounds like they may have sold you the wroung shoes. you mayb abe to rearch them b using a block and sandpaper. slide the shoe in the drum. this will mark the hi points. sand the hi points off till you have a mark on 90% of the shoe. when you adjust your brakes. turn the nut till you ant turn the wheel. then back it off,til you can just barly turn th wheel. ride it. the brakes wil seat and will be looser. this way the shoes grind them self to finish the fit or arch

[Matt_200s]

They were to thick so I ground the part that sits on the stud/spline thing down but only a tiny bit less then a mm (which is smaller then an inch for you americans). So the arch wasnt affected. But I tried to tell my dad that I probly ground too much off but he wouldnt belive me so I think thats my problem and your right.
But I'll ask if this satisfies him anywho untill thenI know the brake pedal dosent work period any reasons why? :confused:

[dads]

Well I use grease, not never sieze. Its water salable. its good on threads and places were water cant get too. like case bolts

[Howard]

Damn,
i read this whole post and im damn confused. seems like everyone is skipping around on things. thats just me though and i ain't all there most of the time.
sooo.
just to help me out here, have you takend the rear cables loose were the arm is on the rear drum?
when off the cables move freely?
the little round deal that the end of the cables go through and the wing nut is on, are those hard to get in and out of those holes? they should have some slack in them because they have to rotate as the brakes are applied.
you said that you can move the arm on the drum just fine by hand.
well that leaves everything from the arm to inside the drum working properly.
if you check the cables with them removed from that arm on the drum brake part and they move freely then hell , there shouldn't be a problem unless the cables are to long.
are they the original cables?

:shrug:

[Fuzzy]

They are a bugger to do. I fought with a set on a 84 200s for awhile also. I had to do the same thing and file down some of the shoes just to get them to go inside the drum. I think the aftermarket shoes are a little bigger then stock. And work on a bunch of different models. But if you can spin the axle by hand and apply the brake lever by hand and it stops the axle from turning. Then i agree the brakes are fine and not the problem. I would unhook the cable running to the hand brake for now. And just try to get the short cable running to the foot pedal to work. Its not uncommon if the rear brakes wernt working that the cables are stuck tight from no lube and not being used. So if you can get that cable moving freely and at least get the footbrake to work so you can stop. Or even take a strong piece of wire and run it from the rear brakes to the pedal itself and try operating it that way and see if it applys the brakes ok. Then you will just have to go get another cable for it.

[ATC_250SX]

yeah you guys do make a good point with the cables. i didnt even think of that befor i assumed it was the arm that was frozen up:doh: but i like fuzzys idea. i think that will defedently tell you if thats the prob. or not.

[yamaman]

Matt not sure if any1 already said this as didnt read through all posts,from what u say i get the impression you mean the cable hasnt got enough travel in it!!??Could it be your cables old and therefore stretched????????????

Jus my 2 cents worth!!????????Godd luck

[ATCRYDER]

How abotu an update, Matteo?

I would bet that when you get those things fixed....youll see that i was porbly somethign very minute that you jsut werent payin attention to!! This kinda stuff can happen all the time & I speak from experience! hehe.