1985 ATC 250R question

[MONSTER X RIDER]

I just got a SWEET 1985 ATC 250R a couple weeks ago, I had to get another since I put a 1987 CR500 motor on my other one. Just like always, I just cant leave things alone. I just had a fresh bore with a wisco piston, had it ported, Rad valve, 39mm keihin, and a FMF Fatty pipe and FMF muffler. Now it rips! My questin is, What benifits will I get from a reed spacer? Any info would be great!

[NOS_350X]

None, save your moeny.

Originaly they where thogught to give the air more time to mix with the fuel, but dyno's have shown that they have absoutly no hp gain. Now there only purpose is to raise teh carbs on banshees to clear the clutch arm.

[MONSTER X RIDER]

Thanx NOS! You seem to know your stuff very well, I have read alot of threads that you have started or touched on. Your info was also very helpfull with my 350X. What kind of 2-stroke oil do you run and what ratio? Bolth of my R's have fresh topends but one has a 1987 CR500 motor on it. I used the last of my Yamalube and want to go with another oil. I want to use something that does not gum up, seperateor rust after a while of sitting, and I will be running 110oct. Any input would be great because I need to get some quick. Thanx again

[YAMAHONDAMAN]

Yamalube 2-R is some GOOD Stuff !! also i have ran the Belray MC-1 and Tenoplate Klotz...
and i agree with nos ..... NO REED Spacer.. they KILL Top End Charge

[X053]

Have you posted pictures of these trikes??? I couldnt find any.
If not please do! :thumbsup:

[MONSTER X RIDER]

I will try to post pics today or tomarow, Im still waiting on some parts for the 500R. I will also post a couple of pics of my Tri-Z that I may be selling.

[NOS_350X]

I Personaly run Maxima castor 927, I love it, the only problem is, the gas dosent change color when you mix. Motol 800 is good stuff to, Id run that if i couldnt easely get the Maxima. I will never run yamalube too much build up, Castor stays nice and spotless. I mix at 32:1, mainly because its easy, 4 oz 1 gallon

Thats just my preferences talking about oils is like talking about religion with alot of people.

[MONSTER X RIDER]

Thanx again for the help! I just posted some pics of my trikes in Pics & Vids. Check them out and let me know what you think? Hey NOS, Id like some more input on making the R even faster! What do you think? Anybody know which dome for the Cool-head is for Race-gas? I want as much compression as I can get on 110 oct.

[NOS_350X]

Well The coolheads have interchangeable domes, Makes it fast and easy. Get 2, a high compression one and low. Thus you can get it dialed in.

Send me a pm, Ill work with ya on making that thing SCREAM!!

[Speedway73]

Unless you've done some head work,deck work or run advanced ignition,you're wasting your $$$ on the race gas.

[MagicJames]

I used to run Klotz BENOL and now i run Amzoil 100:1 formula but i still run it 32:1 but i dont think it is 4 oz to 4 gallons i believe it's 8 oz to 4 gallons

[200x_Basket]

Unless you've done some head work,deck work or run advanced ignition,you're wasting your $$$ on the race gas.

true!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[NOS_350X]

Speedway and 200x, If you read his questions, Which obviously you didnt, Hes asking about what dome to get for the coolhead that would make him run race gas. If you dont know what that is ill explain it for you then you might be able to understand the question better. A cool head it a hunk of alunimum it flows alot more water in it hince the name, But also the nice feature on theses is they have removeable/interchangeable domes, So you can get a dome to acheve any compression you desire, The smaller the dome the higher compression.

[3wheelergod]

I used to have a 18cc dome on my r that ran race gas! No you DONT have to advance your timing to run it either, it does help burn a little more thoroughly though, But if you have your compression up, it will burn hotter and faster anyways!
Reed spacers DO help if they are put BETWEEN THE CARB AND REEDS! It does help atomize the charge more before it is introduced to the vacuum inside the engine! It is not a signifiacant gain but the dyno does show that it helps broaden and smoothen out the powerband! Not so much increase power, just broader power!
I would port and polish your motor first, cool head it, put a bigger carb and a rad vavle ( I ran one for years) and there are no better reeds for top end than the rada valve for the 250r. I know someone will disagree, but I have a dyno handy and run ALL SORTS of different things. We make 120hp+ motors for banshees so we have tried about everthing and stick with what works the best! We even make our own 2mm reed spacers for banshee's. The boost bottle is a joke! Absolutely NO help from them, just a great sales gimmick! Hope it helps.

As far as oil, there are TONS of different kinds, most work well for everyday "normal" use. I have seen race engines freeze bearings with Klotz! Dont get me started on Bel-ray, and any manufacturer oil (yamaha,polaris,suzuki) is a RIP OFF. They find the cheapest oil and sell it for a HUGE profit! I'm not saying it wont work for the average joe, but it would NEVER stand up to a race engine, you might as well get the walmart brand if you are going this way!! After my Boss showed what Klotz does (thats ALL I used to run) to high RPM and heat motors, I'll NEVER use it again. I use Phillip 66 INJEX now. Totally ashless, rust inhibitors, EXCELENT coating charicteristics (you would DIE if you seen what most oils do on a hot plate) and you are safe to run from 32-50:1 NEVER RUN over 50:1, you are ASKING for trouble! Hope it helps!:thumbsup:

[MONSTER X RIDER]

I used to have a 18cc dome on my r that ran race gas! No you DONT have to advance your timing to run it either, it does help burn a little more thoroughly though, But if you have your compression up, it will burn hotter and faster anyways!
Reed spacers DO help if they are put BETWEEN THE CARB AND REEDS! It does help atomize the charge more before it is introduced to the vacuum inside the engine! It is not a signifiacant gain but the dyno does show that it helps broaden and smoothen out the powerband! Not so much increase power, just broader power!
I would port and polish your motor first, cool head it, put a bigger carb and a rad vavle ( I ran one for years) and there are no better reeds for top end than the rada valve for the 250r. I know someone will disagree, but I have a dyno handy and run ALL SORTS of different things. We make 120hp+ motors for banshees so we have tried about everthing and stick with what works the best! We even make our own 2mm reed spacers for banshee's. The boost bottle is a joke! Absolutely NO help from them, just a great sales gimmick! Hope it helps.

As far as oil, there are TONS of different kinds, most work well for everyday "normal" use. I have seen race engines freeze bearings with Klotz! Dont get me started on Bel-ray, and any manufacturer oil (yamaha,polaris,suzuki) is a RIP OFF. They find the cheapest oil and sell it for a HUGE profit! I'm not saying it wont work for the average joe, but it would NEVER stand up to a race engine, you might as well get the walmart brand if you are going this way!! After my Boss showed what Klotz does (thats ALL I used to run) to high RPM and heat motors, I'll NEVER use it again. I use Phillip 66 INJEX now. Totally ashless, rust inhibitors, EXCELENT coating charicteristics (you would DIE if you seen what most oils do on a hot plate) and you are safe to run from 32-50:1 NEVER RUN over 50:1, you are ASKING for trouble! Hope it helps!:thumbsup:

Thanx 3wheelergod! That clears up a few questions and issues for me. I already have my motor running a fresh top end, ported, Rad valve, 39mm Keihin, and FMF exhaust, I figure a Cool-head and my guess was the 18cc dome on 110oct was the next step. I have a few fast quads that I ride with that I want to smoke with this trike! Anymore input on more power would be great! Thanx again

[3wheelergod]

Sounds like big bore, stroke and pipe are about all you have left. I'll P.M. a few tricks to you though! :)

I wouldn't go to alcohol unless you are only drag racing with it. It is a huge pain to purge everytime you ride it and they are hard on seals anyways ( something about the acidity of the methonal ) plus you'll have to put a desert tank on if you want to ride for more than 20 minutes! Stick with 110 octane! (or better)

[MONSTER X RIDER]

Sounds like big bore, stroke and pipe are about all you have left. I'll P.M. a few tricks to you though! :)

I wouldn't go to alcohol unless you are only drag racing with it. It is a huge pain to purge everytime you ride it and they are hard on seals anyways ( something about the acidity of the methonal ) plus you'll have to put a desert tank on if you want to ride for more than 20 minutes! Stick with 110 octane! (or better)
I wouldn't run alcohol on the 250R, your right its a pain purging all the time and I plan to ride it alot. However my 500R is going to run on 110oct so I figure I should set this 250R up for it and use the same fuel for them bolth. I was thinking of switching to alcohol in the 500R next season but Im not even close to that yet! Thanx again for your input, every little bit adds up to a huge help!

[Speedway73]

Speedway and 200x, If you read his questions, Which obviously you didnt, Hes asking about what dome to get for the coolhead that would make him run race gas. If you dont know what that is ill explain it for you then you might be able to understand the question better. A cool head it a hunk of alunimum it flows alot more water in it hince the name, But also the nice feature on theses is they have removeable/interchangeable domes, So you can get a dome to acheve any compression you desire, The smaller the dome the higher compression.

I read and understood the question just fine thanks.

I'm fully aware of what performance heads with intechangeable domes can offer.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r246/Westcoast820/WestcoastDualPlugHead2.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r246/Westcoast820/WestcoastDualPlugHead1.jpg