View Full Version : more power for my tri-z
h8t2lose
01-13-2010, 04:17 PM
Ok so im building another z. I want this one to have a bit more punch the the stocker i rebuilt last winter. Im really looking for a smooth power transition nothing obnoxious. Gonna be a sand bike only. If that makes any sense:D Also can you get decent power without changing the stock pipe out? I really like the way the it looks with the stock one on there. Do these bikes do well with big bor kits? Can you mod the stock carb to perform with upgrades? I want to eliminate the stock air box and go with direct filter. any suggestions on that. Dont want to pile on a bunch of questions but to get a general direction. Ive never done alot of modding on bikes so ill be in unfamiliar territory. So come on all you tri-z guys, show me some love:headbang:
oh its an 85 if that makes a diff
thanks in advance
Senator
01-13-2010, 07:40 PM
OK I guess I'll be the first to give this a shot but there are folks out there with more know-how about this than me so hopefully they join in too.
can you get decent power without changing the stock pipe out?
I don't think so. The way I understand it, DG is about the only easy option but it's not a great one. Despite that, it seems to be what most guys run. I've got a few DG's here in the garage if you need one let me know. Jemco can make you a custom pipe for whatever bore you end up with. I hear folks have done it but have never seem one, or heard about it's performance, myself.
Do these bikes do well with big bor kits?
Yes Sir. As the old saying goes, there's no replacement for discplacement.
Can you mod the stock carb to perform with upgrades?
Yes, but don't. The carb should be the first thing you address since they came from the factory with such tiny ones. 34mm I think? maybe even 32mm? Whatever, dump it and start fresh with something that will feed the motor what it needs to go somewhere.
I want to eliminate the stock air box and go with direct filter.
Great idea. Put your new carb in place first to give yourself an idea of how much room you'll have. It's actually a little tight in there behind the carb so you'll need to select a pod filter that will fit, and then of course, the appropriate outerware.
h8t2lose
01-13-2010, 10:44 PM
thanks very much for the info. With these big bore kits do you have to resleeve the jug? And whats a good size to got with? Ive seen 250r's with 310 kits, is that a standard big bore? As far as the DG pipe goes shoot me a pm with a price and ill see what i can do. last question for now, Does port work on the jug have any real benifits for the money?
thanks again.
:headbang:
Senator
01-13-2010, 10:57 PM
thanks very much for the info. With these big bore kits do you have to resleeve the jug?
Yep
And whats a good size to got with? :
Talk to ATC Eric. He seems to be the guy dealing Sprock's stuff these days.
As far as the DG pipe goes shoot me a pm with a price and ill see what i can do.
Will do
last question for now, Does port work on the jug have any real benifits for the money?
It's the best mod money can buy when it's done right because you can have it ported to match your riding style and power distribution preferences
Calebe5
01-13-2010, 11:38 PM
Despite what Senator said, you can modify the stock pipe. Find the Yamaha Wrench Report on google or here on 3wheeler.org. The wrench report will tell you how to cut and reweld the stock pipe for better flow. It's not going to outperform a Phase 5 or custom Jemco pipe, but it would allow you to keep the stock look. In general, the rest of phase 1 of the Wrench Report is an easy way to bump up the power.
Senator
01-13-2010, 11:44 PM
Thanks for straightening that out Calebe.
Senator
01-14-2010, 12:02 AM
This is what I found when looking for the details on the pipe cutting, which I would like to find and read. Did I miss it somewhere?
23375
23376
http://www.quadpit.com/mags/1985/3-4w-action/yam-wrench-report-02.htm
CeaserTheThird
01-14-2010, 08:13 AM
I got a DG pipe, let me know if you want it...
Calebe5
01-14-2010, 10:01 AM
This is what I found when looking for the details on the pipe cutting, which I would like to find and read. Did I miss it somewhere?
23375
23376
http://www.quadpit.com/mags/1985/3-4w-action/yam-wrench-report-02.htm
YOu were on the right track with the quad pit website, but you had just linked the Phase 2 page. Here's the Phase 1 page that shows how to cut the stock pipe: http://www.quadpit.com/mags/1985/3-4w-action/yam-wrench-report-01.htm
h8t2lose
01-14-2010, 09:33 PM
thanks again for the info. Unless im spelling or spacing the name wrong ATCeric hasnt been on since 2006. Im sure im mistaken. Need to start putting a price list together. Porting, big bore kit, carb, ect ect...
Im thinking a metalic Burnt orange powder coated frame and black plastic with some gun metal gray here and there. like around the bottom of the shocks and headlight gaurd. Any opinions??? good or bad i dont care, out with it.:)
Also ive read that the honda 450r swinger bolts right up. Anyone done this mod? of so what kinda benifits do you get from this?
all for now, gonna snap some tear down photos tomorrow. Start sand blasting and head for the powder coater next week hopefully.
thanks again :headbang:
NOS_350X
01-15-2010, 01:45 AM
Ok, Umm, i dont know where to start on this one. Lets see, First off, You will never make any decent power with a stock pipe. Even with the 3/8" cut out. Its heavy and designed to make no power. The stock silencer is even worse. Working with other performance mods will not help. Building engines goes in steps, When you skip something it will hold back everything elce you do.
You want more power we got to have an idea of what your shooting for. Are you trying to get compareable to a 250r, 450's or you just want it to run a bit better.
Putting on a big bore kit, and keeping the stock pipe would be pointless.
Senator
01-15-2010, 08:12 AM
thanks again for the info. Unless im spelling or spacing the name wrong ATCeric hasnt been on since 2006. Im sure im mistaken. Need to start putting a price list together. Porting, big bore kit, carb, ect ect...
You should be able to catch him here:
http://www.planettrike.com/member.php?u=4
Tecate 50
01-15-2010, 10:24 AM
For good straight info on these machines.....contact Tecat-z on the site. Very smart when it comes to the Tri-Z. Also Jemco makes fab pipes for the Tri-Z and look killer....275.00 shipped to your house. As mentioned before ATCERIC on Planet Trike handles the bigbore stuff....and yes you will need a bigbore liner! Hope this helps....
Calebe5
01-15-2010, 12:20 PM
Ok, Umm, i dont know where to start on this one. Lets see, First off, You will never make any decent power with a stock pipe. Even with the 3/8" cut out. Its heavy and designed to make no power. The stock silencer is even worse. Working with other performance mods will not help. Building engines goes in steps, When you skip something it will hold back everything elce you do.
You want more power we got to have an idea of what your shooting for. Are you trying to get compareable to a 250r, 450's or you just want it to run a bit better.
Putting on a big bore kit, and keeping the stock pipe would be pointless.
I fully agree with you. H8t2lose mentioned earlier that he wanted smooth power transitions, so I took it to mean that he wanted to build a mild motor. A souped up bigbore motor is not going to have smooth power transitions, its going to be "obnoxious" as he stated. I know that the stock pipe will never outperform an aftermarket pipe, but it can be improved somewhat.
NOS_350X
01-15-2010, 01:06 PM
With the right Carb pipe, and porting they can keep a smooth stock pull, One of the first motors i built when we rode it it felt slower, after racing some we realized this little 250 was spaking 330's esr bikes and giving 370's a run for there money. It had a ton of power you just never felt it come on.
h8t2lose
01-15-2010, 02:35 PM
Ok ill try to clear up what im after as far as power. My yfz450 has obnoxious power, its stroked, camed, jetted, piped so on and so on. ITt"ll climb a brick wall. Its nuts and rides like it. lots of vibration from idle all the way to wot. So much so that last summer my Dr D pipe broke off and went cartwheeling across the sand. Im sure riding hard had some to do with it also.
My stock Z with the stock pipe, .030 over bore, boysen power reeds and a dg silencer comes on very verrry slow and then revs out very fast. I dont really care for how the power transitions. I think i need to mess with the jets some on this one as well.
it surges pretty bad also when you hold the throttle in one place. Im not very
2 stroke, carb, jet savvey. :confused:
I want this bike to be somewhere middle of the road. dosnt have to have huge power on top but some bottom to middle punch is what i want. Like i said its gonna be strickly a sand bike. So i want to be able to pull hills and hole shots without struggle. And run on pump gas.
As far as being comparible to a 250r, im not sure, only ridden one once and for about five min on flat sand. But i did however like the power. Very responsive and snappy. Much cleaner than my tri-z feels:(
I hope this clears it up a bit. :thumbsup:
want to say thanks for all the help and information.
please keep it coming.
Tri-Z 250
02-01-2010, 11:23 AM
Port the closed side of the cylinder...looking down the intake it would be the right hand side. Note this will give your powerband snap and boost the mid to top of the power range.
krash1333
08-18-2010, 04:02 AM
polish the intake part on the head and pipe it jet it and run a good fuel to it and 2 stroke mix that would be a good start
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