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Schlauncha
04-13-2010, 07:31 AM
Okay, for starters I will come clean that I am not only interested in getting to better-understand fuels, for the sake of my trikes ('85 ATC70, and a 2-stroke Suzuki TS185 converted from bike to trike), but also (maybe moreso) for some other power toys such as my 2002 HD Sportster 1200 (mostly stock engine), and my brother's 1993 Silverado street truck that he keeps bolting upgrades onto. But I figure a general discussion on fuel benefits all who use it, which is pretty much everyone here.

Being in Iowa, currently most of the pumps carry 87 regular, 89 ethanol (cheapest and guaranteed at every station practically), 91 regular, and 93 ethanol. There are some stations that carry E85 (which is 130 octane I've heard?) but the closest one is an hour away in the opposite direction of the towns we go to school and work at.

First observation is that 89 Ethanol is the cheapest. Therefore I run that in my daily driver, an '07 Cobalt with a manual trans. I have maybe ran 91 or 93 in there once, but noticed no difference. Slightly faster than slow is still pretty slow, i figure. But on my HD, I have established a very clear view of the effects of octane. If I hit my reserve level on fuel, it's pretty rare I'm in a position to pass a gas station for another one (only 2 stations along my normal commute home), so sometimes I end up with little choice but to put 89 Ethanol in there. The result is that the bike will start, idle, and cruise just fine, but accelerating is hugely affected, where I have to rely more on RPM's and less on torque, and overall give it less throttle or else it just feels like "BLEH". Putting 91 regular or 93 ethanol in there is the typical preference, but I can't perceive a difference in performance between the two. However, if I fill the tank up with 110 blue race fuel at the drag strip on a Test n Tune day, the really good smelling fuel, it sure feels like quite the opposite of 89, now the engine loves more throttle and being shifted earlier to stay in its torque band instead of rpm. For the mpg a bike gets, I would fill it with 110 every time given access to it.

On my ATC70, I have tried not to put Ethanol it in because of concerns regarding rumors I'd heard about Ethanol being bad for engines that were originally intended for leaded fuel. I don't recall when they stopped using leaded fuel, if my '85 is newer than that or not. But for as little as that goes through, I don't mind keeping a can of 91 regular in the garage. I put 87 regular in my JD lawnmower, having been told by my father in general not to put ethanol in any small engine such as mowers, a generator, or a power washer.

Ethanol is an alchohol sort of thing, and adding that to the fuels seems to have created a conflicting division between various types of motors, where now not only do I have to be mindful of whether an engine needs an expensive higher octane or can get by on cheaper low-octane fuel, but also now whether whatever octane I choose contains Ethanol in it, because some motors seem to just not be set up for that. I just don't know why these ethanol fuels that have crowded out non-ethanol fuels at the pump, like they are an equal substitution for them, can have such an effect on causing engine troubles for small engines, yet pretty much any modern car can switch between regular and ethanol blend fuels without any noticeable differences. I have a feeling that fuel injection may be a big factor here, as it seems like a clear trend that all my motors with carburetors need to run regular fuel, while those that are fuel-injected in our cars can run Ethanol blends. The EFI must be able to sense the way Ethanol burns differently, and so as it monitors the O2 sensor, the injection ECU keeps everything at a perfect balance to prevent fouling or poor performance, even if fuel attributes change between filling up with regular one time, ethanol blend the next. On the engines with carburetors, no such corrections are made, there is no feedback to the fuel input to let it know that the setting it had for regular fuel, is now fouling the engine up when running a different fuel. But this is all speculation on my part.

So what I'm wondering, looking for enlightenment here, how off are my perceptions on this all? My brother goes through a tank every other day at minimum in that Silverado, and he feels he needs to run 91 non-ethanol, absolutely no lower octane or with ethanol. While he has added headers, intake, bigger injectors, TBi spacer, fuel ECU chip upgrade, MSD 6AL ignition, higher ratio roller-tip rockers, and possibly a cam, I don't think he has done anything there that would push this motor into actually needing higher octane than 89, or even if it would be perceivably different. My HD doesn't NEED 91+, but it is definitely perceivable from how it acts on 89E that it doesn't like lower octanes.

I have heard that AvGas (110 low-lead I believe) burns much too slowly (as it is for the lower RPM motors aircraft use) and therefore in the engines of cars or bikes, it ends up melting the valves or causing destructive backfiring. Race gas, such as the blue stuff my buddy uses in his dirt oval cars, smells good and seems to run really good, but I have also heard that this is leaded fuel, and will quickly foul up the plug and eventually valves, if used on an engine for a length of time, instead of just briefly in race motors that get rebuilt frequently. The E85 they sell, that my father's 2007 Silverado can run (losing about 7% fuel efficiency), supposedly is around 130 octane and is dirt cheap thanks to subsidies. And that requires corn, which puts money in the farmers' pockets, to buy tractors, which supports the ag industry that employs pretty much everyone I know. Good or bad in a bigger picture, it's good for my picture. But there are no pumps nearby with that, so I can't see making a daily driver whose engine relies on using that fuel. I read in a car magazine about a guy in Minnesota with an old Vette he dropped a crate engine into, put twin turbos on it, and uses it as a daily driver with something like 1100hp under his foot, thanks to having E85 pumps nearby that let him afford to drive this all around. The motor and EFI were built specifically for E85, however, so it's not just "any race motor can be a daily driver if you have E85 to put in it".

As for how Octane affects stuff, basically what I've been told is that it is a quality that resists knock, or detonation premature to the spark initiating it, and as you get to higher compression motors, the minimum amount of octane required to keep detonation from happening increases along with it. The big misconception is that higher octane equals higher power, through the fuel somehow containing more potential energy or a faster combustion rate. Dumping those expensive bottles of Octane Booster into my fuel tank will not make my grandma's Buick suddenly run more powerfully, the only time Octane Booster would be needed might be perhaps if you had a high(er) compression motor and were forced to fill it with 87 or 89 octane, then this bottle of stuff would (if it does its job) allow you to still give decent throttle to the motor without it knocking and pinging. For the rest of the world, just because the bottle has flashy performance catchwords on it, and logos of flaming tires implying potential power output results, doesn't mean it will make your stock engine run a single bit faster, other than your car being lighter weight by the amount of wasted cash.

One thing somebody suggested to me was mixing 1:1 ratio of gasoline and R/C nitromethane fuel. Unfortunately I don't feel like paying $30/gallon for r/c fuel, which is comprised of a vast amount of castor oil since it is generally for 2-stroke motors, so I can go and make $33/gallon "race fuel" to foul and/or burn up the rings and valves on whatever I put it in. Last I remember, it was only around $10 for a gallon, if not a whole motorcycle tank, of that blue 110 race fuel at the drag strip. But if what I'm reading in my searches indicates that this race fuel is "not in the best interests" of any motor I don't plan on rebuilding often/ever, it makes me wonder what fuels I can or should use in performance motors like that, if I'm basically stuck with 91 regular or 93 Ethanol. I figure you guys here will have a much wider set of experiences with fuels, and could give me your input on what are many assumptions on my part, as well as perhaps some advice on what fuels to use in things like my ATC70, small engines, Harley engine, or my brother's 350 he keeps bolting upgrades onto, yet uses as a daily driver.

Anyways, sorry for the long rant, meds make me talkative. Through my hands. Hopefully I stayed on topic enough that this thread is of value to those reading it, and will get responses from others which will make for a valuable source of info here on fuels.

3razors
04-13-2010, 10:04 AM
Ethanol was added to fuel to help reduce emissions. If possible I avoid ethanol based fuels because they are corrosive to the carbs in storage. Avgas 100LL works great when your motor is setup for it. Boyeseen reed company uses avgas as the fuel of choice when they test there products on motors. Its federaly regulated and about the most consistant fuel out there. Its far better than pump gas but not as good as race gas for motors that truely need it. Just run the recommended octane your motor is setup for or needs. If you put race gas in a stock motor that was designed for 91 octane you will loose power.

Race gas won't make you faster, it makes a fast motor run.

3wheelergod
04-13-2010, 10:44 AM
Ethanol bonds with water too easily. It can only bond to one thing at a time, so when gas containing ethanol is used, as soon as it comes into contact with water, it breaks it bond to the gas and re-attaches itself to the water, basicly the same way HEAT is used when you know you have water in your tank. The alcohol bonds to the water and it is then ran through the engine at a substantial power loss, plus it leaves water molecules behind because as we all know, water wont burn! Everyone also knows that water inside the cylinder IS A BAD THING! This is also why alcohol engines must be "Purged" after use or they RUST! The bond to water is stronger than that to gas! It is also PROVEN to REDUCE fuel economy! There are a few really good articles wrote on this subject that I am sure you could find with a simple search on your computer. Sure alcohol boosts octane and burns cleaner, but at what cost???????

As for AV gas or race, I prefer to have a little lead in it! Av gas is inteanded to produce consistant ignition at sea level to 15,000 ft. It is usually in the neighbor hood of 108-120 octane. I have ran it in almost every turbo and high performance engine I have ever had or worked on. Not to say that race gas doesn't work as well, I just prefer a little lead (burns a touch more thuroughly) to any of the other fuels out there!

There is a direct relationship of compression to octane. If your engine has stock or a lower compression ratio, you will see no difference in how it runs. On the other hand if you try to run regular gas through a high comp engine, you will get pre-ignition, thus lowering its power potential. Put some higher octane in it and it will run the way it is supposed to. Octane is just a measurement of how much compression and heat it can take before it ignites. If your engine has a high comp ratio, it tries to ignite the fuel from heat and comp instead of the controlled timing of the spark plug. I am sure some of you have worked on engines and got the ignition timing a little off, if you recall it probably ran like CRAP. This is basicly the same thing that happens with a lower octane fuel. The ignition of the fuel is to early and fuel economy and power BOTH suffer!:thumbsup:

86waterpumper
04-13-2010, 11:31 AM
most people do not run their lawn equipment or dirtbikes 3 wheelers etc nearly as often as their cars, therefore the eth. mixed gas in the cars never gets as old and stale. 3wheelergod is right. The main problem with ethanol in smaller engines is the introduction of water into the system. This can even happen at the pump level if the ethanol is old and has sat at the gas pump for a several week period of time. It also is great at causing 2 stroke mix to seperate out and come out of suspension. It also attacks some forms of rubber and fiberglass and such like alot of older boat tanks would have. It is most certainly NOT race gas, or 130 octane etc. Just because the alcohol itself carries a higher octane rating does not mean anything unless you were running it 100 percent. In addition this is not a very pure form of alcohol like would be purchased from a reputable race gas company. What happens is that the fuel that is added to the eth. is of a lower octane to balance it out etc. Even if you did somehow get a golden sample of ethanol or e85 the disadvantages FAR outweigh the advantages. As you have noticed yourself in your own car eth. produces less power and believe it or not it doesn't even help most cars on the emissions front. I agree this is what the govt. says is the reason for having it but it has more to do with political deals and pockets being padded than it does any help for the environment. Even the oil companies don't really mind it, because the eth. causes the car to get less mpg so people are burning more gas, and with every gallon they pay more taxes on it. It is all a huge scam and supposedly this summer most places are going to 15 percent. Here in tn I have already seen a couple stations that had the 10 percent scratched out :( NOT a good sign.

Schlauncha
04-13-2010, 11:52 AM
I meant the E85 was 130-ish octane, and in my dad's silverado was getting 7% lower mpg on open highway, just to clarify. Thanks for explaining about the ethanol bonding to water and making gas "go bad" quicker in tanks of less-often used equipment. It's starting to make some sense now.

And I hit reserve right out the door on my HD today and had to fill up at the station that only has 89 Ethanol! Noooo! I put a gallon in to get me to class, then I have enough left to chase down a higher octane fuel pump somewhere.