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View Full Version : alive.... but not very healthy


oilspot
02-13-2011, 08:39 AM
I got the 70 up and running. It pulls strong in first but wont get out of its own way in 2nd or 3rd.

i figure i need to adjust the valves (haven't since i got the thing), and try cleaning out the carb again. Could a carb that's too big cause this symptom? I'm thinking that it's prob a clogged pilot.
FlyingW
02-13-2011, 02:18 PM
look at the point gap as the potential problem.
oilspot
02-14-2011, 01:26 PM
will have to check the valve gap again. I had to pull the points out and file them to get the trike running.
As far as replacing the points and condenser... do the points have to be soldered to the condenser? I had to do that to a z50 a while back. man i really made a mess of the job!

may look into cdi options???
FlyingW
02-14-2011, 01:34 PM
Im afraid they do. just make sure the gap is close. The secret to the soldering is flux. Flux both parts, hit with the iron, apply solder. once done, wipe the soldered area down with rubbing alcohol. You can get a tube of flux ar Radio Shack.
oilspot
02-14-2011, 08:47 PM
I see! i tried to do it with just a regular pencil iron and no flux.
Gonna try checking and resetting the points to see if they slipped, or i botched setting the gap. If not, what size iron would you recommend?
ATCnut
02-14-2011, 10:15 PM
The timing of those little guys is set by the gap. If you filed the points, I bet the little wiper that pushes them open and closed is worn too. You will need to adjust them with a DC timing light. The gap will be different, but it will be timed correctly. Should run better then.
FlyingW
02-14-2011, 10:37 PM
If you pickup a dual wattage 20/40 watt iron from Radio Shack, you'll find it should suit most of your soldering needs.


I see! i tried to do it with just a regular pencil iron and no flux.
Gonna try checking and resetting the points to see if they slipped, or i botched setting the gap. If not, what size iron would you recommend?