Jeroboam7
12-06-2002, 04:33 PM
This wouldn't fit in the P.M. Box so I'll put it here!
yamaman wrote on 12-06-2002 04:53 PM:
Have you gfot any other information you could share regaurding the topend job(powervalve) on the Tri z (mines 85 ).Whats overall difference(silly question ?)Cost and exact year of the newer parts you used or can be used?Sorry to bother you but any help be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks Dave
Yama,
Powervalved YZ Engine = more torque and Horse Power
The TRI-Z engine except for the right side cover and some gears in the tranny is a mid 80's YZ engine with a earlier 80's Jug stuck on it!
If you would want to you could get ahold of a Powervalved Jug and the governer assembly from the right side case and put those parts on together in your TRI-Z engine, all the castings for the governer assembly and the control rod that goes up to the jug are already in your cases. A mid 80's powervalve jug and governer assembly is what you would be looking for. The only problem you might have would be the YZ head cooling port comes out pointed directly at your radiator so it would probrably be easier to use the TRI-Z head.
A cheaper way to get YZ power is to press a YZ sleeve into your current jug and then have the ports matched and cleaned up, it really is a different machine after that. The engine hits much harder with the YZ sleeve in it. But if you do it right its still able to put around and trail ride all day as well! You will also need a YZ Piston as well. I bet you have over $500.00 in it by the time you get this done!
The power valve switcheroo is gonna run ya up near a thousand by the time you would get it all done unless you find an old YZ or bare engine cheap!
The best way to go now would be to find an mid to late 90's complete YZ engine and change the coil and stator around to run lights, and I would also change the gears in the tranny to match what is in you TRI-Z as well for strength.
Here is a post some other fella wrote that explains the whole process.
Now I can't sleep. I'm in bed trying to figure out ways to make it very simple for everyone to do because it is really worth it. I'm going to give you the simplist ways I can think of. Here goes: If you have a good YZ tranny and cylinder(complete engine) change the clutch cover to a TRI-Z cover(I'm pretty positive it will work) drill the hole in the clutch cover as described below, swap clutch cover parts(add bearings and governer componets, put you Tri-z kicker in its place) drill the hole in the cylinder, do whatever you want to do with you radiator and your ready to go. IF do not have a Yz tranny and are using your tri-z tranny, this is how it goes. However you get ahold of the entire YZ governer internals is up to you. If you take your finger and run it along the top of the TRI-Z clutch cover towards the water pump right past the gear oil fill cap you will come to a cliff right before the water pump. If you clean the dirt out first and run your finger along the face of the cliff, you will feel a little hole. Clean it out good so you can look at it. That hole is there for the YZ governer rod . There is a seal that fits in it too. So don't worry about oil leaks. You just have to get the right size drill bit and take it out. It is about 1/16 thick. If anyone has a spare clutch cover you will see exactly what I am talking about. On the inside of the clutch cover to the upper right of your waterpump gear you will see an empty space. If you look at the hole on the outside you will see on the inside it is already drilled through. You are only drilling the outside to get rid of the governer rod block piece. Also in that space on the inside of the cover, on the face of the cover is a round hole. This is where the bearing goes for the one half of the governer. Yamaha did not change the casting for the clutch cover from a yz to a tri-z they only added for the kickstarter. If you look at the case half behind the clutch cover, along side of your clutch basket, above the primary gear is another round hole. This is where the other bearing will go for the other half of the governer. You will also need a primary drive gear from a yz tranny, it has the extra gear attached to run the governer. Put all the pieces in there place (the whole governer assy. Also the gov. rod has to be assmbled with the clutch cover off) button it up and your ready to go with the lower end. I think the rest you guys pretty much will understand from the other postings.(cylinder hole etc Like I said before I chose a 6 speed because that extra cog is amazing. Here are some references to help.www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/DISPLAYPIC.ASP?Section=200274&ID=2858 that is the YZ governer assy.Item#3 is the governer rod that goes through your clutch cover. Item #6 is the sealSame url as above except, Section=200285&ID=2858 That will show you the primary gear(item#1) I hope this really helps you guys out. There is a lot of different ways to do it. Pick one and stick with it. I would also recomend printing some of this stuff, because ther is no way in the world I could ever type this much again.Good luck Denn
yamaman wrote on 12-06-2002 04:53 PM:
Have you gfot any other information you could share regaurding the topend job(powervalve) on the Tri z (mines 85 ).Whats overall difference(silly question ?)Cost and exact year of the newer parts you used or can be used?Sorry to bother you but any help be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks Dave
Yama,
Powervalved YZ Engine = more torque and Horse Power
The TRI-Z engine except for the right side cover and some gears in the tranny is a mid 80's YZ engine with a earlier 80's Jug stuck on it!
If you would want to you could get ahold of a Powervalved Jug and the governer assembly from the right side case and put those parts on together in your TRI-Z engine, all the castings for the governer assembly and the control rod that goes up to the jug are already in your cases. A mid 80's powervalve jug and governer assembly is what you would be looking for. The only problem you might have would be the YZ head cooling port comes out pointed directly at your radiator so it would probrably be easier to use the TRI-Z head.
A cheaper way to get YZ power is to press a YZ sleeve into your current jug and then have the ports matched and cleaned up, it really is a different machine after that. The engine hits much harder with the YZ sleeve in it. But if you do it right its still able to put around and trail ride all day as well! You will also need a YZ Piston as well. I bet you have over $500.00 in it by the time you get this done!
The power valve switcheroo is gonna run ya up near a thousand by the time you would get it all done unless you find an old YZ or bare engine cheap!
The best way to go now would be to find an mid to late 90's complete YZ engine and change the coil and stator around to run lights, and I would also change the gears in the tranny to match what is in you TRI-Z as well for strength.
Here is a post some other fella wrote that explains the whole process.
Now I can't sleep. I'm in bed trying to figure out ways to make it very simple for everyone to do because it is really worth it. I'm going to give you the simplist ways I can think of. Here goes: If you have a good YZ tranny and cylinder(complete engine) change the clutch cover to a TRI-Z cover(I'm pretty positive it will work) drill the hole in the clutch cover as described below, swap clutch cover parts(add bearings and governer componets, put you Tri-z kicker in its place) drill the hole in the cylinder, do whatever you want to do with you radiator and your ready to go. IF do not have a Yz tranny and are using your tri-z tranny, this is how it goes. However you get ahold of the entire YZ governer internals is up to you. If you take your finger and run it along the top of the TRI-Z clutch cover towards the water pump right past the gear oil fill cap you will come to a cliff right before the water pump. If you clean the dirt out first and run your finger along the face of the cliff, you will feel a little hole. Clean it out good so you can look at it. That hole is there for the YZ governer rod . There is a seal that fits in it too. So don't worry about oil leaks. You just have to get the right size drill bit and take it out. It is about 1/16 thick. If anyone has a spare clutch cover you will see exactly what I am talking about. On the inside of the clutch cover to the upper right of your waterpump gear you will see an empty space. If you look at the hole on the outside you will see on the inside it is already drilled through. You are only drilling the outside to get rid of the governer rod block piece. Also in that space on the inside of the cover, on the face of the cover is a round hole. This is where the bearing goes for the one half of the governer. Yamaha did not change the casting for the clutch cover from a yz to a tri-z they only added for the kickstarter. If you look at the case half behind the clutch cover, along side of your clutch basket, above the primary gear is another round hole. This is where the other bearing will go for the other half of the governer. You will also need a primary drive gear from a yz tranny, it has the extra gear attached to run the governer. Put all the pieces in there place (the whole governer assy. Also the gov. rod has to be assmbled with the clutch cover off) button it up and your ready to go with the lower end. I think the rest you guys pretty much will understand from the other postings.(cylinder hole etc Like I said before I chose a 6 speed because that extra cog is amazing. Here are some references to help.www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/DISPLAYPIC.ASP?Section=200274&ID=2858 that is the YZ governer assy.Item#3 is the governer rod that goes through your clutch cover. Item #6 is the sealSame url as above except, Section=200285&ID=2858 That will show you the primary gear(item#1) I hope this really helps you guys out. There is a lot of different ways to do it. Pick one and stick with it. I would also recomend printing some of this stuff, because ther is no way in the world I could ever type this much again.Good luck Denn