what premix ratio do you run?

[250sx]

and what brand oil?

[Levi]

Motul, Motul, Motul...

[Woodo68]

YahmaLube 2R 40:1

One pint to 5 gallons it makes mixing easy.

[ATC_250SX]

Well i was told i shouldent use it but... VALVOLINE marine 2 cycle oil. For the dirtbike, Thinking about synthetic though.

[250sx]

I am using yamalube during break-in then I will probably switch to kawasaki pre-mix b/c it's green. :D

[Kev250R]

I've always had good luck with Bel Rey MC-1. What the local cycle shop says they sell the most of too.

--Kevin
'83 ATC250R - Stock
'84 ATC250R - Not Stock

[250sx]

Kev is back!!!! where ya been you bum! :D

[turbo]

yamalube, 32:1 have not had an engine detonate on me since i switched from qwiksilver. its a "high performance" oil that we can get here that is for atv's and boats. have not touched it since my old snowmobile blew up.

[Caterpillar]

I use Bell Ray MC1 as well, fully synthetic is the SH!T!! I have been running 40:1 as my beast likes fouling plugs. I have played with jetting, but havn't found the right combo yet.........

[YamaChuck]

I have a YT 125 that I just rebuilt the motor on. I am going to eliminate the oil pump and run pre-mix in it. I am going to use Yamalube to break it in and probably switch to Amsoil synthetic. What would you guys run for a break-in pre-mix? I have lots of moolah and time in this motor and I don't want to fry it.

[250rAL]

Bel-ray MC-1

[250sx]

my tri-z manual said run around 14-16:1 (I forget exactly what) for break-in. If you have the jets you might also wanna richen it up since more oil=less gas=lean burning.

You should also (in case you didn't know) ride it until it's warm at 1/4-3/4 throttle, stop and let it cool completely down, and repeat 4-5x.

[DakotaDoc7]

Same as Woodoo, Yamalube, 1 Pint to 5 Gallons.

[dads]

I've been running Golden Spectro synthetic at 32:1 In my Tri Z

:thumbsup:

[Anton]

I see lots of people run 32:1. Is it okay to run it that lean on a stock 85 250R? Does the brand name of 2 stroke oil make a big difference? I found some cheap walmart "tech 2000" 2 stroke oil for less than $2.50 canadian a litre. I hear it's garbage and I shouldn't use it..
http://members.shaw.ca/asheng/Image1.jpg

[dads]

WOW that is good oil (for a chain saw mixed at 16:1):bash:
If your into rebuilding engs run it. :doh:

[Ride Red and on 3]

Maxima castor 927 at 40:1

[dunerash]

927 36-1

[86waterpumper]

can't believe none of you guys run klotz...I like super techniplate...oh and if you run that tech 2000 garbage I can promise you a nice piston with a hole in the top of it...watered down crappy junk...

[all terrain physco]

my buddie has a yamaha YT-175 tri-moto, it was his dads and then my buddie bought it from him and semi-restored it(tires,seat,carb rebuild, but didnt have to tear the down and rebuild the motor) when his dad had it(he bought it new 83 or 84 i think) he just ran 10W30 motor oil mixed with gas at a 40:1 ratio, it's been 6 years since my buddie restored it and he runs whatever's cheapest, last time it was poulan chainsaw mix(the stuff in little bottles for like $.69 each) whatever's cheapest, he runs a 32:1 ratio and the trike runs very good, and he hasent had any problem's with it so I for one dont think it makes alot of diffrence, maybe if one was racing or something. just my 2 cents.

[86waterpumper]

hmmm well he got lucky is all I can say. When I got my first dirtbike a yamaha mx100 air cooled I made the mistake of running weed whacker crap (at 32:1 at that) and one top end was all it took to convince me

[all terrain phsyco]

well he's been useing it for going on six years now so maybe he's lucky or maybe it just doesnt matter in old yamaha 2 strokes, he also use's the same mix in his 73 arctic cat 340 cheetha and 440 puma. I use the cheap shet in my 76 puma and it hasent hurt it any so far.

[Anton]

Originally posted by 86waterpumper
hmmm well he got lucky is all I can say. When I got my first dirtbike a yamaha mx100 air cooled I made the mistake of running weed whacker crap (at 32:1 at that) and one top end was all it took to convince me

My first dirtbike was a Yamaha MX 100 also. Do you still have yours, or have any pics? I recently traded mine for a 1983 Yamaha tri moto 175.. good trade or not?
What year was yours? Mine was an 83.. I thought they were all oil injected, so why did you have to premix (mine is anyway)?

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/946103-2002_1005_140227aa.jpg

[all terrain phsyco]

the oil injection on my buddies is broke, so he has to premix the gas/oil, not A bad looking 100 there, i'd like to find a 175 yamaha dirt bike, im debateing rebuilding my XL185S honda dirt bike or maybe finding a 175.

[markb]

golden spectro @ 50:1
whatever you run call the oil manufacturer and ask them what ratio to use for your application!!!! if they don't have a tech line or sound dumber than you about it try somebody else's oil. the reccomendations in the factory manual are for factory products and have almost nothing to do with aftermarket oils. i'm thinking about trying klotz cause it smells neato,are you listening spectro?
mark

[86waterpumper]

Nice mx100 anton, man I miss that little bike. Mine was a 79, I bought it for 100 bucks and had the injection blocked off before I ever got it. That was a tough little sucker I'll have to say once I got the topend rebuilt. I wasn't easy on it as you will see from the first pic haha. I remember many a time going on a six or seven mile ride and having the back sprocket twist on me and have to push it home...I got to where I clamped a pair of vise grips on the handlebars and took with me when I rode LOL Here are a couple pics here they are big so youll have to scroll...LOL a couple are of my buddy riding it around, not me. I sold that bike to my wife's nephew for 300 bucks I think, now it has ducktape for a seat and bicycle handlebars haha here are a couple pics..there are a few more saved on my webpage, I'll add another couple If I can find them...



http://webpages.charter.net/willchilds/mx100a.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/willchilds/mx100c.jpg

[350xhilaration]

Honda HP1 40:1....only time in 7 yrs of riding my KX that I had to push/pull it out of the woods was from using $hit premix...was a Sunday, bike shop was closed and all I had was weedwhacker stuff like those pics..Never again will it get poured into anything I own...not even my weedwhacker..I use synthetic in it as well.

Anyone interested in an old, in need of restoration Suzuki 185 On/Off road bike I think it's late 70's maybe early eighties. it's in Speedbumps cellar.

[ATC_250SX]

well heres something for you all to think about, my uncle used to run used motor oil in his snowmobiles. i have one of them its a 1974 arctic cat lynx serries II still runs like a top, now i run valvoline outboard oil in it without any problems do i have good luck?, no i dont think the oil matters that much

[trishee]

maxima castor 927 32:1

[whiteman350x]

PJ1 2T 50:1 soon as it is gone have 2 gals. of blue marble i'm gonna try.

[az350x]

an old thread comes back from the grave!

BTW, I'm now running Amsoil 2000 mixed at 50:1 in my son's blaster and am planning on running it in the Tri-Z if it ever runs again! :D

[250sx]

I think 32:1 wins it. :cool:

[ATC_250SX]

well i run 32:1 in my dirtbike, however in my snowmobiles 20:1, thats what they call for, but what would you guys run for a fresh topend? my dirtbike is comming back from the machine shope like thursday, well the cylinder, and its gonna have a new bore and pistion along with a realitivley new wristpin bearing, what should i run for a ratio in that do you all think?

[Troll]

I wonder if there's anything to this; :shrug:
I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626
/////////////////////////////////////////////


Pre-mix 101

OK, looks like it's time for a little pre-mix 101. I don't usually get into ratio discussions, because mix ratios are like religions to most people, and they tend to be closed-minded on the subject, but I'll put in my $.02 here anyway.

There is a prevailing myth that less oil is better, and that the oil in the fuel is what lubricates the engine. Both are wrong. The engine is lubricated by the residual oil that builds up in the crankcase. All the oil in the fuel does is replenish this oil.

The best way to determine if you are running enough oil is to check the level of the residual oil in the crankcase. If the ratio you run leaves enough residual oil in the crankcase to cover about 1/8" of the bottom of the crank wheels, then you are fine. If you don't have that much residual oil in your crankcase when you pull the top-end off, you aren't running enough oil for your riding style and conditions.
With that said, to have that amount of residual oil in the crankcase at 50:1 (a ratio made popular by magazines and oil bottles), you can't be riding very hard, or your bike is jetted richer than necessary simply to deliver enough oil. I arrived at 26:1 for my bike with my riding style because that is the amount that gives me the proper amount of residual build-up. Small-bore engines require greater oil concentrations than larger engines to achieve the proper amount of residual build-up, because they rev higher and have higher intake velocities. Along the same lines, someone that pushes the engine harder, and keeps the revs higher, also needs to use higher oil concentrations to achieve the proper residual build-up.

To understand why the residual oil is so important, you have to understand what happens to the oil in your fuel when it goes into the engine. While the oil is still suspended in the liquid gasoline, it can not lubricate anything. It has about as much lubricity at that point as straight gasoline. When the gasoline enters the engine, it evaporates, dropping the oil out of suspension. Now that the oil is free, it can lubricate the engine, but it must get to the parts to lubricate them. The way it gets to the bearings and onto the cylinder is by being thrown around by the spinning crankshaft. Some of the oil eventually makes it into the combustion chamber, where it is either burned, or passes out the exhaust. If the combustion chamber temps are too low, such as in an engine that is jetted too rich, the oil doesn't burn completely. Instead, some of it hardens into deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston, and on the power valve assembly. The rest becomes the dreaded "spooge". The key to all of this working in harmony is to jet the bike lean enough to achieve a high enough combustion chamber temperature to burn the oil, but also still be able to supply enough oil to protect the engine. If you use enough oil, you can jet the bike at it's optimum without starving the engine of oil, and have excellent power, with minimal deposits and spooge. At 50:1, you simply can't jet very lean without risking a seized engine due to oil starvation.

With the high oil concentrations that I use, I tend to get far more life from my cranks and rings than most of my friends that run leaner oil ratios. The high oil content also produces better ring sealing, so more of the combustion pressure is retained.

One small point. No one ever broke an engine by using too much oil.

______________________________________________________________________________________

Pre-mix Ratios and Horsepower Production

I have run Dyno tests on this subject. We used a Dynojet dynamometer, and used a fresh, broken in top-end for each test. We used specially calibrated jets to ensure the fuel flow was identical with each different ratio, and warmed the engine at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes before each run. Our tests were performed in the rpm range of 2500 to 9000 rpm, with the power peak of our test bike (an '86 YZ 250) occuring at 8750 rpm. We tested at 76 degrees F, at 65% relative humidity. We started at 10:1, and went to 100:1. Our results showed that a two-stroke engine makes its best power at 18:1. Any more oil than that, and the engine ran poorly, because we didn't have any jets rich enough to compensate for that much oil in the fuel. The power loss from 18:1 to 32:1 was approximately 2 percent. The loss from 18:1 to 50:1 was nearly 9 percent. On a modern 250, that can be as much as 4 horsepower. The loss from 18:1 to 100:1 was nearly 18 percent. The reason for the difference in output is simple. More oil provides a better seal between the ring and the cylinder wall.

Now, I realize that 18:1 is impractical unless you ride your engine all-out, keeping it pinned at all times. But running reasonable ratios no less than 32:1 will produce more power, and give your engine better protection, thus making it perform better for longer.





I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626

[ATC_250SX]

ok im still gonna run my theoreys then 20:1 for break in 32:1 normal, i cant afford a motor every month or even every year so id rater run her ritch and foul a few plugs in the procces then too lean and foul a motor, and at 32:1 i had little carbon buildup on the top of the piston and none on the head, with a good amount of residual oil, so i think im good, thanks for the info.

[3 or die]

I maintain 25 two stroke vehicles here at work and have learned about oils. Though I cant tell you the theroys like troll has done a wonderful job at I can say this. We rent small two seater cars with 50cc, oil injected marini motors for people to drive on the road while they enjoy the mountians. We started out using a cheep oil. Torco I think it was The scoot cars cdi unit keeps the rpms down around 10,000. We were getting around 4,000 miles and then they would break a ring and destroy the top end. I got tired of building engins everyother day and got the boss to buy some polaris gold oil. Not only did they smoke less I am still waiting for a engin to fail. It made that much of a difrence. We break in the new motors with a quality non sinthetic oil, and then after that we use polaris gold synthetic. It is over 300$ for a 16 gal barrel and we pay it with a smile.

I am currently running 32to1 in my r's. I keep mine pegged all the time. So from what I have learned from troll I am gonna go to 25 or 26to1.

[ATC_250SX]

I was thinkin about running YAMALUBE? any one got any imput, im not a syntetic man. i only buy it when i have to. but that could always change when the price comes down.

[dads]

If your looking for a good oil look at the base the oil is made of.
you should look for a aphalt based oil. Asffalt is a oil base.
the other is paraffin which is wax and not a good lubricant.

[ATC_250SX]

ok, thanks for the info. im just trying to break in my topend right and reduce the amount of wear, but ive been running valvoline and havent had any problems, so im not sure if im gonna change or stick to something that works good,.

[3 or die]

Any of the major would be fine. Honda, yamaha, and so on. Just dont be putting the cheep stuff from walmart in it. Since I was a kid my dad has used the Mercury quick silver brand and had very good luch, but boy it is stinky. The major chainsaw brands are also very good. Those damm engins r turning some serious rpm.