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  • Big Red Electrical Question

    I'm trying to get the lights to work on my 200e, but have no power to the light switch. My problem is that the ignition switch is bad, so I want to bypass it (no key needed). I'm not using the electric start so there is no battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Here is the wire diagram.

    http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...132/wiring.jpg

  • #2
    Just connect red and red/yellow wires together. If they still don't work,then possible light switch

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    • #3
      when you unplug the key switch there will be two big wires and two small.
      the big ones are power in and out. the two small ones are ground and kill spark.
      plug a jumper wire in the big wires and that will power up the system.
      if still no power to lights the lightimg coil is bad. all trikes that use batt. and are run with out a batt. seam to kill the stator. but it could be the rectifire is bad.
      you have to test for 12 volt at the batt cables to tell if it's working.

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      • #4
        another way to test is to temp hook a batt (or a batt charger) up to the batt wires. Then with the two big wires jumpered like Dads said, you should have lights.

        If that works, then the regulator and / or the stator is bad.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the input. It has a Honda ignition key switch, I should say its wrong not bad. The wire colors are different, so I checked continuty and it is wrong. No wires have continuty in the off position so it wont work as a kill switch.

          I checked continuty in the light switch and it is all good. I put a new fuse in the red wire but I'm still not getting power from it.
          So there should be power at the battery cables with no battery? I'll have to check when I get home.
          Last edited by scary132; 10-23-2007, 07:00 PM.

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          • #6
            these wire colors match your wires?

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            • #7
              the power for the lights comes from the key switch. R/W wire.
              B is the kill wire.
              DG is ground
              R is power, has 7 amp fuse and looks to tie in at the starter relay batt. side.

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              • #8
                No. My key switch has red, black, pink, and pink with white stripe wires. None have continuty in the off position, red and black have continuty in the on position, as do the pink and pink/white.

                Heres where I'm at. I did away with the key switch and connected the red (7 amp fuse) wire to the yellow/red wire and hooked up a battery... All lights functioned properly, BUT.. Engine running (no battery) = no lights or power at the battery cables. Tonight I'm going to check the alternator continuty (thats the only test I could find in the manual). Any way to test the regulator? Any other way to isolate the alternator to see if it works?

                The electric start wouldnt work either. I had power at the button (with battery connected) but still have to check the switch and neutral switch.

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                • #9
                  put power to the starter motor to see if it's the starter or starter relay thats bad.

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                  • #10
                    First the lights. All the wiring, connections, and switches are fine.

                    I tested the Charge Coil per the manual and have continuty between the terminals in the coupler, so it is "correct". I only have 1.5V at the battery cables with the engine running though.

                    I also checked the Exciter Coil per the manual, which says if there is continuty between the wire and ground it is in operating condition. There is NOT continuty. I checked the resistance and it was 204. (There is no apparent problem with spark, starts one pull and runs strong.) This shouldn't affect my problem though right?

                    Seems like the issue is the alternator and/or voltage regulator. How do I check the output of the alternator at the coupler (prior to the regulator)? Is there a way to test the regulator????

                    The starter is solved... the motor and relay are fine, problem is the neutral switch. I'll just jumper the neutral switch wire to ground and bypass it.

                    Thanks dads. Do you have a good voltage regulator?
                    Last edited by scary132; 10-25-2007, 04:49 PM.

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                    • #11
                      I think I may. have to check.

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                      • #12
                        Let me know. Unless you disagree, I think changing it is my best bet.

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                        • #13
                          It was the voltage regulator. Got a good one from a guy on 3ww for $10. Lights are bright with no battery, but I am putting a battery in it so the electric start works. Sold for $700.

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